Drink of the Week: St. Agrestis Phony Espresso Negroni

I’ve never completed a Dry January. In truth, I haven’t tried. I admire people who use the 11-year old tradition with roots in 1942 Finland’s wartime rations as an opportunity to examine their health and habits. Self-reflection is always a great idea! But everyone’s relationship with alcohol is different, and, for me, moderation is key all year long. Fortunately, whether you’re booze-free for a day or the foreseeable future, the caliber and availability of alcohol-free options keeps improving. My current obsession is St. Agrestis’ Phony Espresso Negroni.

The latest from the Brooklyn-based brand whose lineup also includes the Phony Negroni and Amaro Falso, among others, the Phony Espresso Negroni is a coffee-spiked, dealcoholized Negroni with a delightful hit of effervescence. Like a traditional Negroni, the Phony Espresso Negroni makes a great aperitivo cocktail in part because it has an unapologetically bitter finish. It’s just the thing I want to sip before dinner, especially during colder months when the sun starts setting circa 4:30 p.m., and I could use a boost. The caffeine content is measured—40 milligrams per 6.8-ounce bottle, compared to 60 milligrams in most espresso shots. But it provides a pleasant coffee flavor and buzz similar to the Espresso Martini riffs and the ascendant Carajillo cocktails at bars nationwide.

Smartly packaged and beautifully balanced, the Phony Espresso Negroni is a great cocktail, full stop. That it so happens to be spirit-free is just the cherry-red amaro on top. It’s a limited release that’s available nationwide but only through the St. Agrestis website. $64.99/12-pack, stagrestis.com