Taste Test: Vermentino Wines

Bright, fresh, and supremely drinkable, Vermentino is made from a white grape variety native to the Mediterranean and planted widely on islands like Sardinia and Corsica, with most expressions still coming from Italy and France. But the adaptable, warm-weather grape is traveling further afield, with winemakers in Australia and the U.S. also crafting single-varietal Vermentinos. Ranging from tart and fruity to creamy with pronounced salinity, the wine is a natural match for seafood and an ideal summer sipper.

Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino Reserve

In north central Virginia, Barboursville Vineyards discovered that Vermentino grapes adapted particularly well to the warm climate at the historic estate. Bottled since 2012, their Vermentino Reserve showcases the varietal’s bright fruit flavors of citrus and pear, while seven to eight months of aging on the lees gives the wine solid body and structure, with a lingering minerality on the finish. $23, bbvwine.com

Yves Leccia “E Croce” Patrimonio Blanc

Sixth-generation winemaker Yves Leccia works solely on the stony E Croce plateau in the Patrimonio region of Corsica where he grew up. His “E Croce” Patrimonio Blanc is made from Vermentino vines planted in 1989. The resulting wine carries aromas of flint and citrus rind, while a noticeable savory character is complemented by notes of tart fruit and honey. $44.99, nyc.flatiron-wines.com

Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino

Founded in 1937 by Antonio Argiolas on the island of Sardinia, the Argiolas winery farms 600 acres of grapes native to the island, including Vermentino. Costamolino is vinified in stainless steel, preserving its fresh aromas of tropical fruit like guava and passionfruit. Flavors of tart pineapple carry through, complemented with a soft, herbal finish. $14.99, astorwines.com

Koerner “Rolle” Vermentino

From brothers Damon and Jono Koerner in South Australia’s Clare Valley, the “Rolle” Vermentino (Rolle is the French name for the variety) is made more like a Chardonnay, aged on solids in oak for nine months. The resulting wine is easy drinking (at just under 11 percent ABV) with a creamy body, juicy lemon flavors, and a subtle hint of umami. $40, buyaussiewine.com

Marchesi Antinori Vermentino Bolgheri

From the historic Antinori wine-making family, which has estates across Tuscany and Umbria, this Vermentino from Bolgheri was first bottled in 1996 as they pushed to reintroduce more indigenous varieties. Vibrantly fresh and aromatic, the wine opens with the scent of springtime flowers and wet slate, and its tart and juicy flavors are cut with a nice salinity. $19.99, craftcurd.com

Poggio al Tesoro “Solosole” Vermentino

Though Tuscany maybe more often equated with red wines, this vibrant Vermentino is a pleasantly surprising alternative. From family winery Poggioal Tesoro, located in Bolgheri between the sea and country hillsides, the Solosole (“just sunshine”) opens with sweet aromas of green apple candy, but is crisp and zippy on the palate with notes of tart apricot. $24.99, wine.com