Spanish Wine Bars Are Having a Moment

You may have noticed the increasing prevalence of wines from regions like Galicia or Catalunya on wine lists, or even the spate of locales leaning fully Spanish. In our March/April 2024 issue, Jennifer Fiedler explores the growing wave of Spanish wine bars and restaurants around the country. Sommeliers and beverage directors are finding inspiration in Spain’s relatively recent wine renaissance, from the revival of indigenous varietals to boundary-pushing new styles.

If you’re a fan of Spanish food and wine, the following wine bars should be on your radar. Each offers lists worth exploring, whether you’re a longtime fan of Spanish wines or just beginning to tour the landscape. And even if you don’t live near them, you can likely still find some of their favorite bottles of the moment.

Malagón, Charleston, South Carolina

The newer sister restaurant to Charleston’s beloved Chez Nous, Malagón goes full Spanish. It boasts a market, tapería, and tightly curated wine list, featuring about 50 regularly rotating bottles. “Our list is 100 percent Spanish. We try to pay homage to the more traditional wine producers while also offering a wide variety of wines from the new generation of winemakers in Spain,” says beverage director Patrick Panella. Malagón’s tapería matches the playful, exploratory vibe of the wine list, which often includes limited bottlings from smaller, up-and-coming producers. “The most compelling thing about Spanish wine to me right now are the small producers cultivating indigenous varietals and producing wines with less intervention, a focus on farming, and a return to the roots of each region,” says Panella.

Bar Vinazo, Brooklyn, New York

The newest venture from sommelier, author, and restaurateur Joe Campanale, Bar Vinazo celebrates his love for Spanish wines. The fully Spanish list, complete with a comprehensive vermouth and sherry selection, aims to highlight producers who work with native grapes, utilize organic and biodynamic viticulture and winemaking, mostly eschew the use of new oak, and make wines that lean fresher and lower in alcohol. “More than any other country, Spain is in the middle of a wine revolution,” says Campanale. “New producers are making exciting wines focusing on terroir and elegance instead of power and oak. Ancient native grapes are coming to the forefront. And the more well-known grapes, like Tempranillo and Grenache, are seeing more delicate touches from talented winemakers. Nearly forgotten terroirs are being rediscovered for their quality. It’s truly hard to keep up with all the great stuff happening in Spain right now!”

Bar Le Côte, Los Olivos, California

For the roughly 45-bottle list at Bar Le Côte in the prolific wine region of California’s central coast, it’s notable that about half their selections are from Spain and Portugal. It’s what wine director Emily Blackman calls a winemakers’ wine list. “I don’t meet many winemakers who, after a long day in the cellar, want to go out and crush a bottle of wine from fruit that they just, well, crushed,” Blackman says. “There is also so much inspiration that can come from drinking wine from other regions.” Blackman points to some of the fresh and fruity wines coming from Rioja as example of the revitalization happening in Spanish vineyards and the efforts of winemakers to push beyond the traditional bounds.

Asador Bastian, Chicago

Since opening last spring in the historic 1883 Flair House in Chicago’s River North, Asador Bastian has curated a wine list that illustrates the breadth of Spanish wine. “Our program is entirely focused on Spanish wines, with the exception of Champagne. And our mission is to showcase every facet of the diamond that is Spanish viticulture,” says Thomas Kakalios, the restaurant’s sommelier. With stores of 700 to 900 bottles and approximately 125 different offerings, the options range from sherry and sparkling, to eclectic whites and benchmark reds. “Spanish wine has long been pigeonholed into bottlings that you may come across at a supermarket, or the prestige cuvées that cost top dollar,” says Kakalios. “But Spanish wine has evolved to offer unique interpretations of terroir at a variety of price points that offer something compelling at all levels and for all occasions.”

Ernie’s Wine Bar, New York City

Ernie’s is the playful sibling to the Lower East Side Basque restaurant Ernesto’s. “We’re in the middle of curating our bottle collection, but for now, we’re rocking about 15 wines by the glass. And we like to keep things fresh with a new lineup every week,” says Daryl Coke, the wine director for both locations. While Ernie’s does share Ernesto’s signature sherry selection, that’s where the similarities end, as Coke aims to take guests on a “new taste adventure.” But Coke’s passion for unique Spanish wines remains clear. “Spain’s topping the charts with wine production, but there’s so much more than the big-name spots,” she says. “Dig a little, and you’ll find these hidden gem winemakers with their own local grapes, doing their thing in ways that might stick to the old-school way or totally break the mold. That’s what got me hooked on Spanish wine.”

La Bodega by Cúrate, Asheville, North Carolina

Cúrate has been a staple for tapas and Spanish wines in downtown Asheville for more than a decade. In 2022, the team officially launched La Bodega (evolved from a pandemic pop-up) to serve as a more casual wine bar, market, and bottle shop. “The Cúrate wine list is mostly focused on the traditional,” says Jessica Salyer, the restaurant and wine program manager. “With Bodega, it’s a little more unconventional. I like to keep the by-the-glass options rotating and focus on the newer, fresher styles.” That could mean options like Ameztoi Stimatum—a red Txakoli that pairs well with summer seafood—from among La Bodega’s list of about 30 glasses and 50 or so bottles. “Spanish wine is so approachable and versatile when it comes to pairing,” Salyer says.