Q&A: Ago Perrone of The Connaught Bar

Long a figure on the international cocktail stage, Agostino “Ago” Perrone has amassed a list of awards and accolades so lengthy it would break the bounds of any standard CV. From his native Italy to his longtime home in London and beyond, Perrone has built his career on not just cocktails, but the art of hospitality. Since he took the helm of The Connaught Bar in 2008, his dedication to both substance and service has garnered the bar regular recognition as one of the world’s best.

Now, for the first time, a new book from Perrone and the team brings the stories and ambiance of the Connaught home to readers, from the high-form technique of its cocktails to its impeccable style. We sat down with Perrone for a chat about the intention behind the book, his perspective on the evolution of the hotel bar, and how he always picks the perfect cocktail for the moment.

Imbibe: You’ve been with the bar since 2008; what was the inspiration to write this book now? What were you hoping to express with it?

Ago Perrone: We had been approached in the past to do a cocktail recipe book, but it always focused too much on the technical aspects. We wanted to highlight the aspect of storytelling, which is key in what we do, and on the atmosphere. The Connaught Bar opened in 2008, when I joined. And now, after 15 years, we felt it was the moment that we wanted to share the genuine passion and love for what we do, to share our mentality, and make the guest—the reader—feel like they are sitting at the bar.

“We felt it was the moment that we wanted to share the genuine passion and love for what we do, to share our mentality, and make the guest—the reader—feel like they are sitting at the bar.”

So you can sit down with a copy, and you can read through our story and look at the photos and feel that you are immersed in the space. And if you are curious about a recipe and want to pull your sleeves up, all the instruction and details are there in the order of complexity and execution. On a Sunday afternoon, you might be sitting on your sofa flipping through the pages, and then you realize it’s 6 o’clock. Time for an aperitif! Why not ask The Connaught Bar what I should have? [Try the Betty Is Back from the book.]

How did you select which recipes to include in the book?

It’s about 100 recipes, which are representative of 15 years of menus that have been developed at the bar. It gives you a sense of the evolution of cocktail bars, and hospitality, and The Connaught Bar itself over the last 15 years. So there will be something that is very close to a classic cocktail that might have been on the menu on year one, like a Negroni with a little twist, for example. Whereas now the Negroni might be interpreted in a different way because we have more knowledge, we have more techniques available. So you witness that evolution of the recipes and the bar. But you can also pick whichever one is right for you depending on your mood and how much time you have, just like picking a recipe for dinner.

You write about how starting the Connaught was not just a change of venue, but an opportunity to think differently about your career as a whole. How has your time there influenced how you think about your role in the cocktail world?

What I was looking for when I joined the Connaught was the aspect of channeling creativity and cocktail making into a broader field of hospitality culture. Being creative doesn’t mean you are a good host. Being creative doesn’t mean you are a good artist or a good bartender. Because we can all pick up some ingredients, and even without a good technical knowledge, make a cocktail. But how are you using the cocktail? Is it creating a connection between you and the guest? Is it making them feel comfortable? Because that is the art of hospitality.

“We are seen as one of the leaders in the modern era, and I think it’s helping the next generation see their job through a new lens.”

What gave me purpose when we opened The Connaught Bar 15 years ago—because it was a huge learning curve—was how you welcome the guest and make them feel comfortable and oversee every detail around them to create a memorable experience or surprise them. And I think it’s become the culture of The Connaught Bar. We are seen as one of the leaders in the modern era, and I think it’s helping the next generation see their job through a new lens. It’s not about the cocktail. I make a drink for you because I want to connect with you, and I use the drink as an excuse. I don’t make you this drink to impress you with my knowledge. I like to say that being classic is the new hipster.

Do you see a marked difference between American bar culture and that in the U.K. or other countries?

I think there is a distinction for sure. Often, what you are looking for in America is not going to be the same as what you are looking for when you come to the U.K., or Europe, or Asia. The perception of the guest is different, and that functions as the input for us. In Italy, for example, the Italian bartender’s knowledge of ingredients is one of the greatest. But how you apply it is different. And up until maybe seven or 10 years ago, you would travel there and mainly expect a Negroni or glass of wine. But places like New York and London, which are two of the major players in the world in the moment, the speed of life is different, and so the culture of hospitality and the product is different.

It’s sort of a chain reaction that [bars] keep developing to make sure that they are maintaining a standard with other bars around the world, which are getting better and better because the [cocktail] community is getting better. So our role is to continue to create a better future for our guest experience, but also a better future for the bar industry as a whole. It’s a bigger world than just what’s in the glass.

What sets the hotel bar apart from a standalone bar?

When we opened The Connaught Bar, there was a big distinction between the hotel bar and a street cocktail bar. A hotel bar was the classic place, serving classic cocktails, with amazing attention to detail overall. A street bar is more about the activity of the cocktail making. My experience was to merge the activity with the purpose, and I think that we set a strong standard. Nowadays, you travel the world and you see many bars offering a welcome drink. We were the first bar to do it. And you see many bars giving you a cocktail card with a recipe from the menu that you enjoyed. We were the first to do that. But we didn’t invent it; it was inspired by the fine dining experience. So we call it a fine drinking experience.

Are you behind the bar often these days?

When I’m here, I’m behind the Martini trolley. I’ve served my duty behind the bar in the past, and now I’m here to mentor the new generation. They are more advanced than my generation in some ways. But etiquette and mindset always need special attention and mentoring to feel grounded. I’m here to share the mood and the love with the team, and support how I can.

What is your favorite cocktail to make for yourself?

This question is tricky. It depends where you are, who you are with, the mood … I tend to go between a few—the Martini, because we all feel very cool with a Martini glass in hand. And in order to feel cool for longer, I like to adjust the ratio. With a 50-50, you can have two Martinis and still speak with a clear mind. I also love the Negroni. I’m Italian, after all, so I can’t go a week without at least three or four. But my new trick is to make them with a float of mezcal. And then if I want something on the fresh side, I’ll make a Margarita. I’m a little bit like a doctor—I try to sense what is needed for the spirit.