Drink of the Week: Vecchia Modena Nero Lambrusco

Lambrusco can’t solve all of life’s problems. (I find this disappointing, too.) Fortunately, it does provide the answer to a lot of the questions that arise this time of year. Wondering what to pour before you sit down to Thanksgiving dinner? Dry Lambrusco is an excellent aperitif. Want to bring something festive to a holiday gathering? Lambrusco is the ultimate party starter.

Because Lambrusco, the name of a family of grape varieties that hail from Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, is a sparkling red or rosé wine that can be made in a variety of styles, it’s frequently misunderstood or miscategorized stateside. In the 1980s, inexpensively made Lambrusco wines flooded the U.S. market, leading many Americans to assume any wine that’s red, fizzy, and from Italy must be cloyingly sweet. 

I am delighted to report that is not the case. When made with care, Lambruscos can be bone dry and beautifully complex. As trends and tastes have changed, and the U.S. wine market has evolved, these elegant Lambruscos are increasingly available worldwide.

One of my go-to bottles is Cleto Chirali’s Vecchia Modena Nero Lambrusco di Modena DOC. Yes, the name is a mouthful. But, even if you only remember “Vecchia Modena Nero,” it’s easy to find in bottle shops or online. And it’s an incredibly versatile bottle. I’ve sipped this wine with cheese and charcuterie, served it with pasta, and poured it alongside roasted root veggies and pan-seared pork tenderloin. White pepper and black tea notes balance lush black cherry flavors, plus there’s bright acidity and lovely earthiness on the food-friendly finish. “Affordable” is a subjective term. But, at less than $20 a bottle, it offers a lot of value for money. And that’s something I appreciate all year long, but especially during the holidays. Wine.com, $17.99