Drink of the Week: Junipero Smoked Rosemary Gin

Regular readers of this column are by now well aware that I’m a fan of gin, appreciating the near-endless varieties that can be created on such a versatile canvas. When Junipero Gin released their new Smoked Rosemary expression this summer, I was intrigued. While rosemary would be a natural match for gin’s botanical profile, smokiness is a much more divisive flavor that can easily overwhelm if not employed deftly. I wasn’t sure what to expect upon sampling the gin, but I was delightfully surprised by their use of an unexpected ingredient.

San Francisco-based Junipero Gin released its flagship spirit in 1996, making it a pioneer of the American craft gin movement (and a continually highly awarded one at that). Aiming for a bolder profile, the ABV sits just below 50 percent—stronger than average but not quite as hot as navy-strength expressions. It’s a solid balance that serves to emphasize the juniper and citrus flavors, while ensuring it stands up in cocktails.

The Junipero Smoked Rosemary Gin still clocks in at the higher ABV, but the flavor profile is suprisingly—yet effectively—subtle. On the nose, the aromas are crisp and juniper-forward, with a soft herbal note and virtually no detectable smoke. In flavor, however, the smoke is evident up front, mingling nicely with the botanical profile before politely excusing itself into the background. That’s because the smoke character comes from the clever infusion of Lapsang Souchong, the smoke-dried tea leaves. The tea creates a gentle yet effective smoky flavor that complements the rosemary, rather than overpowering it. The gin would work well in a savory Martini application, but I think it would be particularly nice in a Negroni. $35, juniperogin.com