5 to Try: Cava, and the Wines Formerly Known as Cava

Odds are, your familiarity with Cava, the sparkling wine of Spain’s Catalonia region, may simply be as a cheap bottle of bubbles. That’s because the vast majority of the quarter billion bottles sold globally are classified as Cava de Guarda, the youngest and least expensive category. Take one step up, and Cava de Guarda Superior represents just 11 percent of sales.

But change is afoot in the region, as Betsy Andrews reported in our July/August issue. Producers of the wine are pushing the regulating body, D.O. Cava, for stricter rules for quality, aiming to improve the wine’s global image and subsequent value. It’s been a moment long coming, as many top winemakers have abandoned the D.O. altogether, with several forming their own association, Corpinnat. Subsequently, many of the high-quality bottles coming from the region today don’t even have “Cava” on the label.

Still, it’s a moment of reckoning aimed at improving reputation. With growers and vintners advocating for traditional, quality-minded methods and D.O. Cava now on board to improve standards, there’s never been a better time to get reacquainted with the category. We tapped sommeliers, restauranteurs, and wine shop owners to get their recommendation for bottles to try right now.

Júlia Bernet, Cuvee Ú, Brut Nature, Corpinnat

“One of my favorite winemakers for sure is Xavier Bernet, and Cuvee Ú is an unreal Cava!” says Daryl Coke, wine director for Ernie’s Wine Bar in New York City. Made from 100 percent Xarel-lo from organic, old vines on the Bernet family vineyard in Penedès, the Cuvee Ú is bone-dry and mineral-forward. “It’s super elegant but still fresh and perfect for the summer heat,” says Coke. $29, shop.paulmarcuswines.com

Parés Baltà, Blanca Cusine, Brut Nature, Cava

“There is so much going on with this beautifully aged Cava,” says Heather Collis, manager at New York City wine shop Despaña Vinos y Mas. Made with Xarel-lo, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, the wine is aged for 80 months in the traditional method and was crafted in homage to the women of Parés Baltà. Opening with aromas of dried fruit and toasted nuts, the wine is dry and brightly acidic, with silky bubbles, offering “a truly elevated experience,” says Collis. $56, despanafinewines.com

Celler Pardas, ‘Hermos,’ Corpinnat, 2019

Created as a partnership between growers Ramon Parera and Jordi Arnan, Celler Pardas works solely with native grapes of the region. And the ‘Hermos’ 2019 is an excellent example of what can be achieved. “It’s uniquely a co-ferment of Xarel-lo and Sumoll, but the wine rips,” says Femi Oyediran, a sommelier and co-owner of Graft Wine Shop in Charleston, South Carolina. Fresh and lively, with bold acidity from the Sumoll, the Hermos gains texture and a gently chalky finish from the mineral-rich soils. “It’s a pretty delicious wine,” says Oyediran. $23.94, empirewine.com

Raventós i Blanc Conca Del Riu Anoia, “De La Finca”

An early producer to leave the Cava D.O. in 2012, Raventós i Blanc remains a favorite among wine professionals, recommended by sommelier and restaurateur Joe Campanale of Brooklyn’s Bar Vinazo and by Patrick Panella, beverage director at Malagòn in Charleston, South Carolina. A blend of Xarel-lo, Macabeo, and Parellada, the De La Finca is aged 30 months and balances bright flavors of pineapple and lemongrass with notes of almond and pastry, carried on fine, mousse-like bubbles. $25.90, saratogawine.com

Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia, Brut Nature

“This is an excellent Cava with an excellent price,” says Collis. Also a blend of Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada, the Reserva de la Familia is the most popular Cava from Juvé y Camps and a perfect entry point for exploring higher quality wines within the category. “It’s crisp and refreshing, with lemon cake vibes and tiny bubbles,” says Collis. $18.99, unionsquarewines.com