Drinks Atlas: Alto Adige, Italy

Illustration: Matty Newton

March 04, 2024

In an almost comically picturesque corner of northernmost Italy, tucked along the Swiss and Austrian borders, there’s a wine region with two names and epic intrigue. Alto Adige, known as Südtirol in German-speaking circles, combines the skyscraping drama of the Dolomites and Alps with diverse soils and microclimates, plus native and genre-redefining international grapes.

Once part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Alto Adige was incorporated into Italy in 1919. Hybrid identities make it the sort of place where polenta and spaetzle share space on menus. “We grow up bi- or trilingual—we have Italian, German, and an indigenous language called Ladin—and I think this opens up your mind,” says Eduard Bernhart, the director of Alto Adige Wines. “You see it in the winemaking.”

Alto Adige’s wide-ranging wine scene spans light-bodied reds from native variety Schiava as well as rich Bordeaux blends that could be sipped from a goblet near a roaring fire. Some 64 percent of the region’s current production is white wine grapes, including distinctive takes on international varieties like Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Bianco. The latter has undergone a renaissance since the 1980s and ’90s, when winemakers moved away from bulk production and started carefully cultivating it on shady hillsides with limestone, clay, and volcanic soils. The resulting bottles are crisp, textured, and occasionally age-worthy. “It’s a compelling white wine variety that doesn’t always get enough international love,” says Chris Struck, the New York ambassador for Alto Adige Wines. “It’s accessible to a lot of consumers, price-wise, but it’s not necessarily on their radar.”

Despite 3,000 years of winemaking history in the region, Alto Adige wines feel fresh. “I wish I knew the Italian or German expression for je ne sais quoi,” says Struck. “You know an Alto wine when you taste it.”

5 to Try

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner

This white wine grape thrives among the high altitudes and dramatic diurnal shifts of Alto’s Valle Isarco subregion. A zesty iteration from a winery established in 1142, this Kerner has lemon and lime flavors and aromas, plus bright green herbs on the finish. $24.99, wine.com

Elena Walch Castel Ringberg Sauvignon

Creamy and beautifully structured, this Sauvignon Blanc is made from single-vineyard grapes and has flinty and fruity notes. Got a Sauvignon skeptic in your life? Serve them this and watch hearts and minds change before your eyes. $33.99, wine.com

St. Michael Eppan Pinot Bianco Schulthauser

Crisp and beautifully structured, this bottle shows how dynamic Pinot Bianco can be in the right hands. It has creamy apple and minerally notes, plus a zingy finish with lots of fresh lemon and lime. $29.99, sf.flatiron-wines.com

Markus Prackwieser Gump Hof Vernatsch (Schiava)

For those who love a light-bodied red wine with a slight chill, consider this your new fave. Made in stainless steel followed by a few months of oak aging, this easy-drinking Schiava has sour cherry flavors and a bright, balanced finish. $22.96, astorwines.com

Terlaner Classico Bianco

A blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, this minerally white wine has an almost spritzy dose of lemon on the long finish, making it an ideal wine to pair with grilled or roasted vegetables or fish. $23.99, wine.com

Emily Saladino

Contributing Editor Emily Saladino is a New York-based journalist and recipe developer. Previously the managing editor of Wine Enthusiast and editor-in-chief of VinePair, her work has appeared in The Washington Post, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Food Network, and many others. A former professional cook and bartender, she holds a Culinary Arts degree from The French Culinary Institute and Level II Certification from The Wine & Spirit Education Trust. She has a poorly behaved cattle dog named Arby.

Fast Facts

While agriculturists believe Gewürztraminer originated in Pfalz, Germany, the aromatic white wine grape has deep roots in Alto Adige. Gewürz means “spicy” in German, and Traminer can be translated as “from Tramin,” the name of a town about 13 miles southeast of Bolzano, Alto Adige’s largest city. “We know it came from another area but we still feel closely related to Gewürztraminer,” says Bernhart. “It’s very special to us.”
The Trentino-Alto Adige region is home to 500 or so miles of ski slopes, and parts of the Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s not unusual for a winemaker to be a former competitive skier or to enjoy mountain biking in their spare time. “To have this landscape with these unique mountains so close to old villages full of culture and history, it’s just outstanding,” says Bernhart.
More than 98 percent of vineyard areas in Alto Adige have DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) status—the most in all of Italy. To qualify as DOC, winemakers must limit yields, grow grapes suited to the area, and, in some instances, fulfill certain aging requirements.