Drink of the Week: Buona Notte Rosa

It’s well established that rosé is capable of being a dry, sophisticated wine. And as Buona Notte shows, it can also be just as terroir-driven as any red wine. Buona Notte produces wines out of the Columbia Gorge AVA in Oregon, neighboring the much cooler Willamette Valley AVA to the west of the state. Co-owner and winemaker Graham Markel makes the most of Hood River Valley’s similarities to Tuscany, taking note of the region’s yearlong sun and volcanic soils to produce natural wines with grapes like Syrah, Merlot, and Sangiovese—the latter of which is another strong contender from Buona Notte.

The Buona Notte Rosa is typically a blend of Dolcetto and Sangiovese; Markel presses the grapes at varying times before combining them to command his ideal acidity and structure, while finishing the wine in natural French oak. The meticulous process results in a rosé that is not your typical pink wine. The oak aging creates much more textural interest with plenty of body, with a much deeper hue thanks to the Sangiovese. Brimming with dry, yet refreshing notes of Meyer lemon, there’s a clear minerality throughout each sip, along with lingering, briny finish.

At the rate rosé continues to evolve, I’ll happily await the next stage of its cycle—vertical rosé tastings, anyone? $24, buonanottewines.com