Taste Test: California Gins

Historically, juniper-forward London dry gin has long been the hallmark of the spirit’s category. But more than 5,000 miles away from that style’s namesake birthplace, distillers in California have been crafting gins that emphasize the state’s diverse landscapes, from sunny, citrus-laden SoCal to the rugged and shrubby Central Coast and the dense forests up north. Beyond simply representing an American style of gin, these spirits speak to the terroir of the Golden State.

St. George Terroir Gin and Valley Gin

Terroir Gin from St. George has been a pillar of the Western-style gin category since it was released in 2011. Crafted in homage to the Bay Area and Marin County’s Mount Tamalpais, Terroir Gin is made with Douglas fir seasonally harvested in Mendocino and complemented with other local botanicals like California bay laurel, sage, and fennel seed. The beautifully aromatic result is reminiscent of a stroll through the Northern California forest. Their newest expression of local terroir is found in their Valley Gin, which highlights the citrus groves of the Central Valley. The fruit-forward gin incorporates the oranges in the form of Seville, Valencia, and bergamot varieties, along with orange blossoms and a lineup of complementary botanicals. $40.99, curiada.com; $31.50, bittersandbottles.com

AMASS Dry Gin

Distilled in downtown Los Angeles, AMASS dry gin aims to represent both the multifaceted culture of the city and aromas and flavors of Southern California. Citrus-forward with a lightly savory undercurrent, the gin includes 29 botanicals from lemon, grapefruit, and bitter orange, to cedar bark and berries, to lion’s mane and reishi mushrooms. Nix the tonic water and enjoy the gin’s more nuanced flavors in a Martini. $39.96, astorwines.com

Junipero

The OG of California craft gin, San Francisco–based Junipero launched their flagship in 1996, amassing a heap of awards in the nearly three decades since. With a bold juniper foundation, Junipero is the most traditional of the bunch but with a fresh, citrus undercurrent and slightly spiced finish. From Martinis to G&Ts, this all-purpose gin hits the mark. $35, juniperogin.com

Future Gin

Female-founded Future Gin, distilled in downtown LA, aims to reflect the flavors of sunny Southern California. With botanical additions like Meyer lemon, grapefruit, honeysuckle, avocado leaves, and grape leaves, the gin’s soft, herbal aromatics are punctuated with bright and crisp citrus notes. This one shines in a simple Martini with a twist. $39, mashandgrape.com

Calwise Big Sur Gin

Family-run Calwise Spirits Co. in Paso Robles pulls its inspiration from the surrounding Central Coast, and their flagship Big Sur Gin is distilled from wine grapes in a nod to the region’s viticulture. With added botanicals like white sage, lavender, and yerba santa, the gin is herbaceous and subtly floral, with a slightly cooling, mentholated character. $29.99, kegnbottle.com

Ventura Spirits Wilder Gin

Inspired by the flora of California’s Central Coast, Ventura Spirits launched in 2011 making spirits and liqueurs that highlight the region’s bounty, both wild and cultivated. Wilder Gin is distilled with locally harvested botanicals like purple sage, yerba santa, bay leaf, sagebrush, pixie mandarin peel, and chuchupate (also called rock parsnip or celery weed). The resulting gin mingles a prominent juniper note with savory herbs and a pleasant, woodsy finish. $44.99, kegnbottle.com

Gray Whale Gin

Inspired by a camping trip along the rocky coast of Big Sur, Gray Whale Gin incorporates botanicals that can be found along the migratory path of the whales themselves. This means juniper from Big Sur, sea kelp from Mendocino, limes from Temecula, mint from Santa Cruz, almonds from the Central Valley, and fir tree from Sonoma. The aroma is nuanced and delicate, and the mint on the palate provides a subtle cooling effect. $36.29, reservebar.com