5 to Try: Kölsch-Style Ales

Where bitter IPAs and rich imperial stouts polarized beer drinkers, an approachable style of ale that originated in Cologne, Germany, is finding fans in beer enthusiasts and casual imbibers alike. Kölsch, according to Heinrich Philipp Becker of Cologne’s Gaffel Becker & Company, “is becoming a synonym for drinkable beer with character.” And in our September/October 2024 issue, contributing editor Josh Bernstein writes about how American craft breweries are broadening their audiences with their own kölsch-style ales (KSA). “Done well, a subtly bittered kölsch is complex enough to curry favor with seasoned drinkers accustomed to intense IPAs, while also familiar enough to nudge mainstream lager lovers into a flavorful new direction,” Bernstein writes.

To explore the category further, here are a few to try, including NA options.

Fort Point KSA

This KSA by Fort Point Beer Company was not only the San Francisco brewery’s very first beer but it’s now one of California’s best-selling kölsches. The robustness of Munich and Vienna malts is balanced by the Saphir and Warrior bittering hops for a clean finish. “We hear a lot of people say, ‘I don’t really drink beer, but I drink KSA,’” says Fort Point chief brand officer Dina Dobkin. $10.99/6-pack, bevmo.com

Huss Brewing Scottsdale Blonde

Maybe it’s because this lightly hopped low-alcohol beer is the perfect refreshment to counter Arizona’s desert heat or because its higher carbonation makes it so food-friendly, but Scottsdale Blonde is Huss Brewing’s top seller. Originally created as a light and easy alternative to high-ABV IPAs, the slightly sweet KSA has become the preferred beer for those who want to extend the night with several beers versus committing to one high-octane brew. “Having a low-alcohol beer as your flagship is definitely more desirable [than a double IPA],” says co-owner Jeff Huss. $9.99/6-pack, totalwine.com

Exhibit “A” Brewing Company Goody Two Shoes

This highly rated homage to the kölsch of Cologne honors the purity of the traditional category while adding a modern twist. Weyermann Pilsner malt, Valley Malt Warthog Wheat, and Valley Malt Vienna malt give it a light breadiness while Tettnanger and Mandarina Bavaria hops imbue the brew with light floral and herbaceous notes. Its dry, carbonated finish keeps you coming back after every sip. $14.99/4-pack, totalwine.com

Best Day Brewing Nonalcoholic Kölsch

As an easy-drinking beer with light fruitness, kölsch is the perfect vehicle for a nonalcoholic ale. “Why do any old lager like everyone else, right?” says Best Day Brewing founder Tate Huffard. “People want flavor here, because they’re not coming for the alcohol.” Best Day’s kölsch gets its toasty sweetness and citrusy bitterness from Cologne and Pilsner malts and Hallertau Traditional hops. The Northern Californian brewery produces other zero-proof beers, such as a pilsner and a hazy IPA, but this is the bestselling nonalcoholic kölsch in America. $20/6-pack, thenewbar.com

Momentum Brew Dry Run Series Nonalcoholic Kölsch

Momentum Brewery—by industry veterans Lars Dahlhaus, Wolfgang Menzel, and German brewmaster Alexander Himburg—has made it their goal to produce the best-tasting near beers around. They don’t dealcoholize beer but actually brew and fully ferment for flavorful NA brews. And through their Dry Run Series program, they often play with experimental NA offerings in the hopes of adding them to their permanent lineup. This KSA celebrates Cologne’s traditional kölsch with subtle hoppiness courtesy of Mosaic, Simco, and Amarillo hops and a bready malty body. $12.99/4-pack, momentumbrew.com