No. 111: September/October 2024

I have to confess, I’ve never had much of a green thumb. My interactions with fresh fruits and vegetables typically start when I select them from their refrigerated displays at my local co-op, far from the sunny patches of soil where their journey to my plate or glass began.

Step into an increasing number of cocktail bars these days, however, and you may run into a different story. The craft-cocktail revival led to a fresh appreciation for, well, freshness. Today, more bars are taking that idea to the next logical step, and are working directly with farms (or even tending their own) in service of more localized, fresher, and flavorful cocktails. Christine Sismondo brings us that story.

For generations, distillers in Scotland have looked to surrounding bogs, filled with dense pockets of partially decayed flora, for the peat they use to give their whiskies an alluring smokiness. Peat bogs are few and far between in the U.S., but that hasn’t stopped American distillers from seeking them out, or from turning to alternate sources of aromatic smoke for making whiskey. Susannah Skiver Barton explores the ways American distillers are experimenting with smoke.

Most wine grapes have names that directly reflect their European lineage. But as Jessica Dupuy reveals, one type of grape with European origins has a long history (and possibly a bright future) among winemakers in the U.S., Mexico, and the Americas. Kölsch, similarly, has its historic origins in Europe, and the German city of Cologne has a special passion for the home-grown beer style. That hasn’t stopped American brewers from taking their own crack at kölsch-style beers, and Josh Bernstein brings us that story.

And yogurt plus salt equals a tasty drink, right? Some American palates may need convincing, but yogurt-based beverages, whether savory or sweet, have played a central role in the culinary traditions of India, Iran, Turkey, and beyond for centuries. Emily Saladino brings us the background on these refreshing coolers, replete with recipes for taking your own tour through the world of yogurt drinks.

We’ve also got a profile of wine importer Jenny Lefcourt, ideas on what to mix with that bottle of Midori in your liquor cabinet, and Wayne Curtis’ look at the peculiar intersection of cocktails and politics.

Plus, September means our favorite time of year is here again. Negroni Week takes place September 16-22, with bars worldwide mixing Negronis (and relatives like the Old Pal) all week in support of Slow Food’s mission to foster a more equitable and sustainable food and beverage world. Find out more at negroniweek.com.

Happy Negroni Week,