Teahouses That Are Ushering in a New Wave of Tea Culture

In our November/December 2023 issue, Max Falkowitz spotlights teahouses across North America that are ushering in a new wave of tea culture. “They’re teahouses with a point of view, where tea is a pursuit instead of a commodity, and where tea drinkers can at last enjoy what bar and coffee shop goers take for granted: to catch up with someone over a cup,” he writes. Here are his recommendations for where to find a memorable tea-drinking experience, whether Chinese gong fu cha, Japanese tea ceremony, or Pakistani chai service.

Arizona

The Chai Spot

This chai lounge presents a traditionally inspired chai experience in a vibrantly decorated tearoom and patio with offerings ranging from the cardamom chai that’s served in Pakistan and India to a signature coconut rose chai. Founded by wife and husband Khalida Brohi and David Barron, the Chai Spot also donates half of its profits to support women and children in Pakistan: opening schools, helping women start businesses, and funding education. Last year, the couple opened up a second location in Lower Manhattan.

California

Song Tea & Ceramics

Falkowitz says Song Tea founder Peter Luong has a “knack for finding teas with striking, unusual aspects that hold your attention, like an extra long finish or a brew that tastes just like cotton candy.” His shop, which is just outside of Japantown in San Francisco, offers reservation-only tastings as well as online tastings. But mark your calendar for the annual Founder’s Collection event, which is an opportunity to join Luong over a tasting of rare aged teas.

Tea Habitat

Since this tea spot in downtown Alhambra is a solo endeavor, visits and tastings are by appointment only. Falkowitz notes, “It’s worth planning ahead to experience [proprietor Imen] Shan’s whirlwind tour of her specialty, deeply perfumed dan cong oolongs from China’s Phoenix mountain.” After a tasting here, Falkowitz says he leaves “with a deeper appreciation for the alchemy of coaxing such precise flavors from the leaves of a camellia bush.”

Teance Fine Teas

Tea drinkers flock to this landmark 20-year-old shop in Berkeley for an authentic Chinese tea-drinking experience around a 10-foot circular tea sampling bar. Explore teas sourced from independent farms in China, India, Japan, and Taiwan. Follow their Instagram for a heads-up about their events and impromptu tea tastings.

Illinois

Living Water Tea House

Although this East Asian tea parlor in Chicago boasts an impressive selection of tea drinks—Phoenix dan gong milk tea, oolong bubble tea, and rose green tea—there’s always the traditional option. Request the tea set and the staff will help you choose a tea and walk you through the tea brewing process.

New York

Fang Gourmet Tea

Falkowitz writes that he first learned and practiced gong fu cha with other tea nerds at this Taiwanese tea shop in Flushing, Queens. The small shop offers a tasting of world-class Taiwanese and Chinese tea brewed and served by expert brewers.

Happy Earth Tea

Happy Earth Tea in Rochester works with certified-organic tea gardens around the world, acquiring more than 60 loose-leaf teas and herbal blends. Sit down for a tea flight, choosing from black teas to herbal/tisane. Or enjoy the pu-erh tea in the traditional gong fu cha service.

Té Company

Take a brewed cup to go or, better yet, stick around at Té Company in the West Village. “Staff make gong fu tea in traditional small clay pots, allowing guests to focus on the interplay of flavor and aroma from steep to steep,” writes Falkowitz. For a bite to go with the tea, order one of the tea sweets, such as the Taiwanese pineapple cakes.

T Shop

This Manhattan teahouse is able to stock up on single-origin teas that are rarely found outside Taiwan, China, and Korea thanks to its personal relationships with farmers and merchants. They even commission private batches that one would never find on shelves elsewhere. Make a reservation for a custom tea tasting or for a gong fu-style brewing experience.

Kettl

This Brooklyn teahouse and Imbibe 75 alum appeals to discerning tea drinkers, not only for its premium-grade Japanese teas sourced directly from growers and producers, but for its variety of drink options. Choose from matcha drinks, tea lattes, and loose leaf. For a curated service, reserve a seat at the Greenpoint location’s backbar or the Bowery’s tasting bar and peruse the full catalog of Japanese teas. Kettl also hosts classes on sencha, matcha, and gyokuro teas.

Texas

West China Tea Company

Since this Austin tea shop sources its teas directly from farmers versus from import companies, they are able to acquire rarities one doesn’t typically find in the U.S. and offer a wide range of single village pu-erh teas and some less common oolongs. Book a hosted seating with an expert tea server who will taste you through a flight.

Wisconsin

Teasider

Operating in a former art gallery space, this tea shop and tea bar in Madison offers a rotating selection of quality teas, such as Bamboo Shu ripe pu-erh tea and Hekisui matcha from Kyoto, Japan. They even have their own line of tea blends. Overwhelmed by the choices? Step up to the tea bar where the tea specialist will happily offer guidance. They also offer brewed tea and specialty lattes as well as matcha and gong fu services.