Taste Test: Blanc Vermouth

Vermouth blanc (or bianco, depending on country of origin) is so much more than an intermediary between sweet and dry vermouth. Elegantly off-dry, its flavors and aromatics range from bitter wormwood to white flowers to stone fruit and even marshmallow. It’s a nuanced cocktail ingredient that’s also interesting and approachable to sip on its own or over ice. Here are six bottles to acquaint you with the category.

C. Comoz Vermouth de Chambéry Blanc

Expect Alpine botanicals plus the unmistakable flavor and aroma of wormwood from this 1881 French bottle that concludes with a long, white peach–forward finish. Drinks historians disagree about whether C. Comoz or Dolin was the original Vermouth de Chambéry used to make El Presidente cocktails in 1920s Cuba. Either way, it’s an excellent modifier for modern mixed drinks, and is lovely straight or over ice with a sprig of whatever green herb is on hand. $16.96, astorwines.com

Contratto Bianco Vermouth

Pale golden in the glass, this bianco from Italy’s Piedmont region packs a bitter punch. Made from 100 percent estate-grown Cortese grapes, it contains 50-plus botanical extracts that are blended into a wine-like base, fortified with a grape-based distillate, then aged for 40 days in stainless steel before bottling. The results are structured and lively, with floral aromas followed by bright green herbs, lemon peel, wormwood, and gentian. $25.99, somegoodwine.com

Carpano Bianco

Rich but refreshing, Carpano Bianco is an excellent introduction to the category or candidate for sipping chilled with nothing but a citrus twist for company. Aromatics include lemon and grapefruit juice and peel, plus vanilla and green herbs, all of which harmonize on the rich, creamy palate. The finish is spicy and floral with a bitter undercurrent that ties it all together. $26.96, astorwines.com

Poli Gran Bassano Vermouth Bianco

It’s exceedingly difficult not to take a second (and third, and fourth) sip of this herbaceous, amber-hued bianco with its full body and pleasantly bitter finish. It’s made with Vespaiolo, an indigenous northern Italian white wine grape, plus some 20 plants, seeds, herbs, and botanicals. Serve by itself in a chilled glass, or pour over ice and top with sparkling or tonic water. $25.99, wine.com

Dolin Blanc Vermouth de Chambéry 

A bottleful of Alpine breezes, this crisp, clear vermouth from Savoie, France, dates to 1821. Made with more than 30 plants and botanicals, its herbaceous nose is offset by white flowers and lemon peel, while the beautifully round palate tastes like stone fruit, wormwood, juniper, and vanilla. Sip on its own, or pour into a pitcher with chopped melon or muddled berries plus ice for a springtime party punch. $14.99, astorwines.com

Antico Torino Vermouth di Torino Bianco

Three locally grown white wine grapes—Trebbiano, Cortese, and Chardonnay—form the base of this amber-hued vermouth from Italy’s Piedmont region. It pairs fruity, floral aromas with a rich, round palate and bitter herb flavors, then wraps it up with a long finish underscored by thyme and tarragon. Serve it over ice with a lemon twist, or top with sparkling water for a refreshing highball. $29.99, wine.com