Americans have been making pineapple upside-down cakes since at least 1925, when a Hawai'i-based fruit company that later became the Dole corporation sponsored a national pineapple baking contest. In her new cookbook, Simple Pleasures, Jodi Moreno updates the century-old rubric by marinating sliced pineapple in mezcal to create a caramel with complex, smoky flavors. “While mezcal is my personal favorite liquor here, you can also make this cake using tequila or rum,” she writes, or leave out the alcohol entirely. If you opt for the boozy version, any leftover pineapple slices or infused liquor would be delicious in cocktails or as a snack to nibble on while the dessert bakes, she adds. For the most photogenic results, let the cake cool completely before inverting it—but, rest assured, it will be delicious any way you slice it.