“This cake will forever remind me of the holidays in Texas,” says Jessica Maher, owner of Lenoir in Austin. “The batter is super boozy and spiced, and when it’s baking, the whole house smell like eggnog (despite not having any eggs!).” Be sure to use the ripest-possible persimmons—several varieties make their way to market during the holiday season, “but the types most prevalent in Texas are Hachiya and Eureka, both of which need to be soft enough to nearly stick your finger through the skin,” Maher says. “I like to serve this cake with kumquat marmalade and whipped créme fraîche, but it really doesn’t need much to embellish—just a good cup of coffee.”