The days of juice topped with soda as an acceptable spirit-free option are long gone. Nowadays, bartenders take the same approach to creating zero-proof drinks as they do to cocktails. To build an NA cocktail that "delivers the same level of complexity and balance as a classic Paloma," Milos Zica, beverage director of Brooklyn's Fandi Mata, makes a spiced grapefruit cordial, combines it with rooibos tea, fresh grapefruit, and lime juice, then tops with club soda and ginger beer.