New Orleanians have a penchant for setting fire to their fare. There’s Café Brûlot Diabolique, the brandy-laced coffee drink with its gravity-defying blue flames, and the scorched decadence of Baked Alaska, the signature dessert of New Orleans’ iconic Antoine’s restaurant. Still, none of these creations hold a torch to the flambéed Bananas Foster, a combination of bananas, butter, sugar and rum, born in 1951 out of the city’s booming banana trade. In The Perfect Cake from America’s Test Kitchen, the dessert’s signature flavor is translated into a picturesque cake.