Inspired by European beer halls and hearty farmhouse fare, The Publican in Chicago experiments with classic, seasonal dishes to complement an extensive international beer list. Chef Paul Kahan says they tinkered with 50 or 60 different preparations for mussels, searching for the right accompaniment. “The winner was a variation using gueuze, a sour Belgian beer that’s a little cidery and a little musty and has just the right amount of acidity that we balance with a good amount of butter, garlic, thyme, and chile flakes,” says Kahan.