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Imbibe 75 Person to Watch: Noguchi Naohiko

Komatsu, Japan

At age 93, Noguchi Naohiko is good at many things, but retirement isn’t one of them. The famed sake brewer, who became a Master Toji at the tender age of 28, has attempted to retire—three times. But even after serving as head brewer at multiple breweries, he knows he has more to offer. This “god of sake brewing,” as he is nicknamed, is largely credited with reviving the Yamahai style of brewing, a historical method that helps kick-start fermentation.

In the course of his career, he’s trained hundreds of brewers, many of whom have gone on to become Master Tojis themselves. His influence is already far-reaching. But at Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute, founded in 2017, he aims to train a new cohort of hopeful brewers. “Even a lifetime may not be enough to fully understand sake brewing,” says Naohiko. “It is this very craft that I wish to entrust to the next generation.”

Time is of the essence for the traditional beverage that’s losing favor in its homeland; in 2022, consumption by volume was less than a third of what it was in 1970. “In this era, we must continually ask: What kind of sake will be favored?” he says. “I hope our brewery will remain one that understands our customers’ preferences and continues to evolve for centuries to come.”

Working with Naohiko requires unwavering dedication. The six-month brewing season doesn’t permit time off, even to see family. But Naohiko works right alongside the seven selected trainees, even if he’s not hauling bags of rice anymore. “We believe that by sharing these sensations together, something can be passed down,” he says. “Working tirelessly every day for six months, devoting oneself solely and intensely to sake brewing; that is what matters most.”

Click here to read more about some of 2026’s other Imbibe 75 People and Places to Watch.

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