Drinks Atlas: Panamanian Coffee

Just two decades ago, coffee from Panama was virtually unknown beyond its borders. Recognizing the quality of their beans but lacking awareness from the market, producers took action. “The turning point was the formation of the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama (SCAP) in the late 1990s, when coffee prices were extremely low,” says Hunter Tedman, president of SCAP and a longtime coffee grower. “But perhaps the most impactful moment in the industry was the rediscovery of the Geisha variety.” In 2004, a Geisha coffee from Hacienda La Esmeralda swept the Best of Panama coffee auction. It broke records in both points awarded and cost per pound. Today, it still ranks among the most expensive coffees in the world. And Geisha beans from Panama, in general, remain globally prized.

An ideal climate and terroir are largely to thank for the quality of Panama’s coffee. The vast majority of specialty beans are grown in the Chiriquí province around Boquete and Volcán-Candela, bordering Costa Rica. “All the coffee grows in the foothills of the Barú Volcano,” explains Tedman. At some 11,400 feet above sea level, the dormant volcano is the highest point in Panama. On the surrounding hillsides, many farmers grow their coffee plants among the forest at upwards of 5,000 feet. “Our terroir consists of volcanic soils at a high altitude with cool, misty days, and a distinct dry season.”

Today, most producers work with multiple varieties such as Catuai and Typica, but Geisha remains the quintessential cup. “For Panama Geisha we always look for clean, sweet, and citric cups with intense floral aromas like jasmine, lemongrass, and bergamot,” says Tedman. “Florals are the Holy Grail of coffee because, unlike fruity notes, they cannot be created during processing. They come from the variety and terroir.” Does the emphasis on Geisha paint Panama into a box on the coffee market? Perhaps, but Tedman thinks the country can use it to their advantage. “I see Panama solidifying the Panama Geisha brand as a luxury product,” he says. “But Panama producers are extremely innovative, and the search for better processing methods and new varieties is constant.

Beans to Try

While Panamanian coffees tend to be more limited in production, most specialty producers export to the United States. Their coffees can be frequently found from quality roasters such as Café Unido—which specializes in coffee from Panama—Passenger Coffee, and Onyx Coffee Lab.

Hacienda La Esmeralda

Founded in 1967 and still run by the Peterson family, Hacienda La Esmeralda is the producer that rediscovered the possibilities of Geisha coffee in Panama on their Jaramillo farm in the Boquete River Valley. Today many of their top-performing lots are still sourced from small patches under Jaramillo’s tall shade trees.

Black Moon Farm

A regenerative farm run by Hunter Tedman, Black Moon is located in the mountains of Alto Quiel, Boquete. Tedman focuses on luxury-level coffee varieties such as Geisha, Chiroso, and Pink Bourbon, and also experiments with processing methods such as anaerobic fermentation and dark-room drying.

Lamastus Family Estates

Since 1918, the Lamastus family has run three farms high in the hillsides of Boquete, planting beans as high as 6,000 feet and keeping more than half of their hectares dedicated as forest preserve. In 2024, their Geisha Natural took first place (marking their seventh win) at the Best of Panama competition.

Finca La Alquería

A boutique, family-run operation, La Alquería is helmed by young producer José Porta in Volcancito, Boquete. Growing varieties like Yellow Bourbon, Pacamara, and Geisha at 4,700 feet, Porta is a newcomer gaining fans for his experimentation with processing methods to reduce acidity while highlighting fruitier flavors.