Drinks Atlas: Basque Cider

Before you challenge cider’s historic credentials compared to beer and wine, consider this: At a time in history when alcoholic beverages were safer than water, humans were keen to ferment anything they could get their hands on; apples were simply another ingredient in that spectrum of fermentation.

For regions ill-suited to wine grapes, this “anything goes” approach was one of necessity. Take Euskadi, or Basque Country, whose ships launched from the ports of Bilbao and Bermeo with barrels of cider on board—only to be refilled with whale oil. “Sailors would drink liters of cider a day instead of water, and as the barrels were emptied, they would kill a whale and fill the barrel with whale oil,” says Jasper Smith, co-founder of the Basque-inspired Son of Man cidery in Cascade Locks, Oregon. “Drinking cider was safer than water, and fended off scurvy at sea.”

Basque Country’s cider production has since become a representation of identity and culture, marked with a history that spans generations of family-owned sagardotegi, or cider houses. Apples from the Basque Country have pronounced acidity, and a brininess that sets them apart from apples anywhere else in the world. The resulting cider has a distinctive sourness, which Smith emphasizes mustn’t be confused with the funk of natural wines. “I think Basque cider was natty wine before natty wine got cool,” he says. The apples maybe fermented with wild yeasts, but “producers are not trying to make funky things.” Basque Country ciders have a vast spectrum of complex flavors that range from olive brine to lychee and pineapple. “They’re trying to make something that’s really fresh and vibrant,” he says, “tropical, yet salty and high-acid.”

Basque ciders also offer plenty of opportunities for pairing. “Cider is always consumed with food in Spain. People drink it on its own, too, and that’s normal. But it really shines with the meal,” Smith says. “It has a lower ABV than wine, but it also has this palate-cleansing ability to keep you ready for the next bite.”

5 to Try

Son of Man’s Club Sagardo

Son of Man’s Club Sagardo membership brings a curated selection of lesser-known, small-batch Basque ciders to the States, plus their own limited releases. “Not only do members get to enjoy cider no one else in the country has tasted, they get to experience the full breadth of flavor the style has to offer,” Smith says. $50-$160, sonofman.co

Isastegi Sagardo Naturala

“This was the first Basque cider we ever tasted, and our gateway into obsession,” says Smith of Isastegi. Located in the town of Tolosa, the family-run estate has been producing cider since the 17th century. Produced using traditional methods, it’s simply dry and refreshing. $15/750 ml, despanafinewines.com

Barrika

The Astiazaran family has been making cider since 1880, and their Barrika is a recent export available in the States. “David Cascione has been working with the Iruin Cider House in Basque Country to produce this import label,” says Smith. Tart and dry with a saline finish, “it’s clean, delicious, and a great entry-point Basque cider.” $12/750 ml, dukesliquorbox.com

Zapiain Premium Sidra Basque Cider

Despite Zapiain’s status asone of the largest producers in the region, Smith notes that “Zapiain consistently pumps out award-winning product.” Made exclusively with indigenous apple varieties, the cider has a fresh green apple flavor and a lingering, pleasant acidity. $15.50/700 ml, pressthenpress.com

R. Zabala Basque Sidra

Produced in the foothills above San Sebastián, R. Zabala ciders are made with estate-grown apples and spontaneous fermentation. Smith fondly recalls magical dinners at the cider house. “Depending on the year, it can be a little funky, but it’s always fun and delicious.” $16/750 ml, pressthenpress.com