Drink of the Week: 2021 Johan Vineyards Blaufränkisch

At their best, chilled red wines are substantial enough to hold their own alongside burgers and other cookout favorites, but bright and fruity enough to taste refreshing straight from the cooler. One of my recent favorites is Johan Vineyards’ 2021 Blaufränkisch, a crunchy crowd-pleaser from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. 

You might know the red wine grape Blaufränkisch by one of its many other names. It goes by Kékfrankos in Hungary, Lemberger in Germany, and Blaufränkisch in Austria and most of the U.S. The fruit in this particular bottle hails from a certified-biodynamic vineyard in Oregon’s Van Duzer Corridor AVA. 

If, like me, you find the word “sustainable” almost comically overused, rest assured that Johan is the real deal. More than 30 of the estate’s 175 acres are devoted to biodiversity preserves and native habitats, and farm life includes close to 100 sheep and chickens. 

Most importantly, the wine is delicious. Aromatic and fresh, it has dark berry flavors coupled with racy acidity and textural intrigue. The latter might be due to the partial whole-cluster fermentation; afterward, it ages for 19 months in neutral French oak. I sipped it alongside a pulled pork sandwich in a friend’s backyard, but you could serve it with cheeseboards, oyster po’ boys, or a big bowl of popcorn you’re secretly eating for dinner. To me, the ideal serving temperature for this wine is circa 50-55°F, but that decision is ultimately up to you and your ice bucket. vinchicago.com, $39.99