Drinks Atlas: Tasmanian Wine

Less than 3,000 miles north of Antarctica, windswept Tasmania is neither blessed with nor burdened by a long precedent of commercial winemaking. “We’re quite a young wine region,” says Sheralee Davies, the CEO of Wine Tasmania. “The first two vineyards of the modern Tassie wine industry were planted in the 1950s. And it’s really been since the 1990s that we’ve seen serious and substantial growth.”

Despite the island’s short history and measured output—in 2022, it produced 906,000 cases of wine, less than 1 percent of Australia’s total of 146 million cases—Tassie bottles have far-flung fans. The cool climate helps create the sort of crisp, lower-ABV wines that headline trend-setting bars and restaurants worldwide. Sommeliers compare Tasmanian Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, and bubbles to Oregon’s Willamette Valley, New Zealand’s Central Otago, and even Bourgogne and Champagne, France (le gasp).

“You’ve got the warm air coming off the Australian mainland, and you’ve got Antarctica to the south,” Davies says. “If you look around the world, you can’t point to that many island wine regions that are this cool and moderated.”

Approximately 2,500 of Tasmania’s 6.8 million hectares is planted to vineyards, partially because some 40 percent of the island consists of protected parks and preserves. The array of soil types include sandstone, schist, and peaty alluvial in the Derwent and Coal River Valleys, plus volcanic, limestone, and gravelly terroirs along the east and northern coasts. That “significant variability” makes site selection especially important, Davies notes.

Tasmanian wine production has increased by at least 5 percent annually since the 1990s. But locals are determined to keep the growth of their wine industry measured and sustainable, Davies says. “Our strategy is not to grow vineyard area simply to grow vineyard area, but to grow vineyard area to meet demand.” As many other corners of the wine world contend with climbing temperatures and overproduction, moderation never sounded so cool.

5 to Try

Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

An elegantly structured wine with considerable aging potential, Tol puddle’s single-vineyard Chardonnay is equal-parts collector’s item and crowd-pleaser. Expect stone fruit and minerally flavors complemented by herbaceousness and refreshing salinity. With wide distribution and a passionate global fanbase, the estate almost serves as an unofficial emissary for Tassie wine, Davies says. “The number of people who know about Tasmania through Tol puddle is significant.” saratogawine.com, $92.98

Jansz Sparkling Rosé NV

From one of Tasmania’s best known sparkling wine producers comes this ballerina-pink blend of hand-picked Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier. It’s crisp and refreshing, with strawberry, raspberry, and ripe summer cherry aromas and flavors. The creamy palate is layered with warm brioche and minerally notes. It all wraps up with a long, tart, food-friendly finish. southernwines.com, $24.99

Devil’s Corner Resolution Pinot Noir 2018

This is elegantly approachable Tassie Pinot at its best. Redolent with fresh cherries, strawberries, and rhubarb, there are also herbaceous notes on the palate, which is crunchy and complex with beautifully integrated tannins. It’s a wine that you can open and enjoy immediately or stow away in your cellar for up to five years. “Whenever you get your hands on a bottle of Devil’s Corner Pinot, you’re sure to be happy,” Davies says. wine.com, $28.99

Stargazer Coal River Riesling 2021

This single-vineyard Riesling has crisp green apple and lemon curd flavors offset by floral and honeysuckle notes. Food-friendly and approachable, you could pair it with everything from runny cheeses to creamy pastas to roast chicken. It’s hand-harvested and wild-fermented, and has bright acidity, crunchy texture, and a long, refreshing finish. Winemaker Samantha Connew “is doing incredible things with her wines,” says Davies. lelandlittleretailfinewine.com, $45

Moorilla Estate Praxis Pinot Noir 2022

A fine wine with an accessible price tag, this Pinot Noir hails from a historic Tasmanian estate less than eight miles north of the capital, Hobart. It has ripe cherry and raspberry flavors, velvety tannins, and along, structured finish. Grown in a mixture of fertile clay and volcanic soils, the grapes are fermented with native yeasts in oak. “Moorilla was one of the very first vineyards planted [in Tasmania] in the 1950s,” says Davies. “It’s an important vineyard and story for us.” denverwinemerchant.com, $32