An Exploration of Japanese Shochu by Way of New York

While ubiquitous in Japan, shochu is still much lesser known in the U.S. But that’s changing as the Japanese spirit expands its presence in bars and stores across the country. “People are recognizing that shochu is from Japan, but there is still some mystery about what shochu really is,” says Akira Koga, Managing Director of Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS).

Drinkers can be forgiven some confusion when it comes to defining shochu. Unlike spirits such as tequila or Cognac which must be produced from specific ingredients, shochu can be made from more than 50 types of grains, nuts, and vegetables, from rice and barley, to sweet potatoes and raw sugar kokuto. Also less familiar to American audiences is the use of koji. A type of mold used to inoculate the shochu’s base ingredients like rice, koji is a critical component that creates an enzymic reaction that converts starch to fermentable sugars.

“There is also so much diversity in shochu because of the different types of ingredients, which create different types of flavor. Plus, it is a completely different way of making the spirit with the use of koji,” explains Koga. “In Japan, each distiller has a different process and customizations for their flavor—it’s incredible.”

“People are recognizing that shochu is from Japan, but there is still some mystery about what shochu really is.” —Akira Koga, JSS

For those intrigued by this storied spirit, JSS recently hosted events at Astor Wines & Spirits, where shochu producers from Japan were offering tastings of more than 30 different brands and helping to demystify the spirit (another even will be held soon Los Angeles). While there are many ways to enjoy drinking shochu, bartenders are particularly captivated by the cocktail adaptability of the diverse spirit. Acclaimed bartenders Julia Momose (of Kumiko) and Christian Suzuki-Orellana (formerly of Wildhawk) helped guide guests on how to best enjoy the spirit in different applications. Momose made a warming hot toddy–style shochu cocktail, while Suzuki-Orellana made a refreshing shochu highball.

“Shochu  is such a distinctive spirit that it’s gotten me out of the mindset of building by the template, and instead building around the spirit as a whole,” says Momose. “And since there are so many different types of shochu, there’s never a moment where I’m struggling for inspiration because the shochu itself is the inspiration.”

The dozens of shochu brands featured at the event represented the spectrum of flavors and styles that can be found within the category. Ginza No Suzume Black from Yatsushika Brewery in Japan’s Oita prefecture is a predominantly barley shochu, full-bodied with flavors of nuts, toasty grains, and an undercurrent of umami. Meanwhile, the Sakura Shiranami from Satsuma Shuzo in Kagoshima Prefecture is a sweet potato shochu that’s fresh and crisp with subtle floral notes. A newer release from bartender favorite iichiko, the “Special” is an example of a lightly aged shochu. It’s soft notes of vanilla, reminiscent of a delicate whisky, make it an excellent option for highballs. 

While American drinkers may still be facing a learning curve when it comes to shochu, Suzuki-Orellana points to a growing interest in exploring new and different flavors. “The American palate has changed drastically in the last decade,” he says. “There has been a lot more interest in expanding our palates and expanding our knowledge, both in what’s available behind the bar and what we can re-create at home. So, flavor profile-wise, I think there’s a lot more room for shochu in the American market.”