The Remarkable Journey of Listán Prieto

On a bustling evening at New York’s Contento, a restaurant celebrated for its globe-trotting fare and wine program, head sommelier Abe Zarate faces a challenge from diners eager to try a wine similar to the light, fruity profiles of Pinot Noir or Beaujolais. “I have just the thing,” Zarate says, excited to introduce a unique find. “This is a Mexican wine made from the Misión grape.”

He pours a vibrant red, sharing the epic tale of the grape, known as Listán Prieto in Spain. Its journey began in the arid plains of Castilla-La Mancha, moved to the Canary Islands, and finally across to the Americas. In Mexico, where it’s known as Misión, Listán Prieto has sparked a renaissance among those keen to experience a piece of viticultural history.

Growing up between Mexico and Texas, Zarate feels a deep connection to this grape, seeing parallels with his own cultural narrative of migration, adaptation, and reclamation. The variety offers a blend of novel and familiar flavors—fruity and light with a rustic edge, positioned between Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Grenache. The wine Zarate pours is bright with summery red fruit—easy drinking but generous on the palate, with a tart juiciness and subtle, earthy undertones.

It’s becoming more common to find a gem like this in restaurants and wine bars. Listán Prieto is experiencing a revival in regions from Chile to California. This movement is not just about rediscovering a forgotten variety; it’s about redefining viticultural values and challenging what consumers consider worthy of their glasses. Zarate’s enthusiasm for sharing wines from the Americas, with deep historical roots, is inspired by the enduring stories these old vines can tell— “stories of survival and resilience,” he says. “They’re living history.”

Following Hernán Cortés’ early 16th-century conquest, a profound cultural and agricultural transformation unfolded in Mexico, then known as New Spain. The introduction of Vitis vinifera, including the Listán Prieto grape, in the colonized areas signified the beginning of winemaking in the Americas. In 1524, as governor and captain-general of New Spain, Cortés mandated that Spanish settlers plant vineyards to sustain their communities and fulfill the sacramental needs of the growing Catholic church. He decreed that 1,000 vine cuttings be planted annually for every 100 people in the colonized settlements. This order rapidly expanded viticulture across the colonial territory, making Listán Prieto, and later varieties like Muscat de Alexandria and Palomino, foundational to these early vineyards.

As vineyard cultivation increased, the quality and volume of Mexican wine began to rival those of Spanish imports, posing an economic threat to the Spanish crown. In 1595, King Philip II restricted the establishment of new vineyards, ensuring the colonies remained reliant on Spanish wine. In 1699, King Charles II further limited local wine production to religious uses. Although these decrees significantly hampered the development of a local wine industry, the use of the Mission or Misión grape—as Listán Prieto became known for its association with the Catholic church—remained essential. It adapted well to central Mexico’s high altitudes and varied climates, becoming integral to colonial agriculture.

Over centuries, this grape was part of the evolution of Mexican winemaking, from its colonial origins to its modern renaissance. Today, regions such as Baja California, Coahuila, Guanajuato, and Querétaro boast vibrant wine scenes led by a new generation of winemakers at establishments like Viñas del Tigre, Palafox, Bichi Wines, and Bodegas de Santo Tomás. These vintners, each working with the grape in some capacity, are innovating and redefining Mexico’s viticultural identity.

In the Guadalupe Valley, Bodegas de Santo Tomás, established in 1888 by Dominican missionaries, stands as one of the region’s oldest wineries. Located near Ensenada, close to the Pacific, the vineyards enjoy cool ocean breezes that temper the arid regional heat. Varieties grown include Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and Chenin Blanc, but a historical section is dedicated to Misión. Dating back more than 130 years, the section was replanted in 2006 to continue producing the winery’s “Mission Red.”

“It’s our entry-level wine because of its approachability,” says Guillermo Tortoledo Lucero, international brand manager for Santo Tomás. “It’s light and easy, appealing to many of our customers, and perfect for enjoying on its own.” Tortoledo Lucero also highlights the symbolic significance of the wine. “Speaking about the Misión grape means talking about the beginning of the Santo Tomás Valley and our origins,” he says. “The commitment to taking care of the vineyards of the original mission is an integral part of our history and legacy.”

Indeed, Mexico’s wine history greatly influenced both North and South America. As Dale Ott, co-owner of Tucson-based Nossa Imports, sees it, it was foundational.  “Mexico particularly fills out the global story of wine as the oldest ‘New World’ wine-growing region, with Listán Prieto as the cornerstone,” says Ott. She and her husband, Stephen, are sommeliers-turned-importers passionate about spotlighting Mexican and Portuguese wine regions. “When we delved into Mexican wines a decade ago, we were surprised by how little was known about this history,” Ott notes.

Today, Listán Prieto symbolizes Mexican viticultural resilience and innovation, forging a unique wine legacy spanning more than four centuries. As the grape journeyed through the Americas, it moved northward with Spanish missionaries and settlers. By 1629, this hearty vine had taken root in what is now the United States, notably in New Mexico’s Rio Grande Valley and near modern-day El Paso, Texas.

New Mexico is poised to celebrate 400 years of viticultural history. Although the Mission grape is no longer a primary focus, with only a few acres planted, it continues to be recognized for its historical significance. Among its proponents is Richard McDonald, a winemaker and owner-partner at Rio Grande Winery in Las Cruces, who sources Mission grapes from Tularosa Vineyards. Here the grapes thrive, suited to New Mexico’s climate and resistant to mildew and disease thanks to their loose bunch formation.

“It’s an easy grape to work with,” McDonald says. “It ferments like a dream, producing a light, easy-drinking wine with good acidity, ideal for pairing with local cuisine, Tex-Mex, and barbecue.”

His fascination with the grape’s adaptability to the hot, arid conditions of the Rio Grande Valley has led him to take a proactive step—planting estate vines. He hopes this will be the first step in revitalizing the heritage grape in the region, to further understanding and promote its potential.

Though New Mexico technically saw the birth of its viticultural heritage more than 100 years before the Spanish missions would bring it to California, the dominance of California’s modern wine industry has allowed a great degree of exploration in diverse grape varieties. In recent years, the Mission grape has experienced a resurgence in the state, valued by artisan wineries like Story Wines, Harrington Wines, and Sandlands Vineyards for its historical significance and unique flavor profile.

During the pandemic, California winemaker Rajat Parr deepened his interest in farming by founding Phelan Farm near Cambria, in San Luis Obispo County. Inspired by a trip to the Canary Islands, Parr consulted Tegan Passalacqua of Sandlands Vineyards to locate ancient Mission vines planted in 1854 at Deaver Ranch in Amador County. “These may be someof North America’s oldest producing Mission vineyards,” says Parr.

Parr also ventured to revive a neglected vineyard in Temecula, planted in the late 1800s at an old site called Moon Ranch on a Pechanga Band of Indians reservation. This site revealed Mission vines and natural hybrids, offering unique viticultural opportunities. Harvesting the vineyard involves unique challenges, particularly timing the harvest to outpace local fauna. “We have to pick before the coyotes eat the grapes,” Parr explains.

In Argentina, Malbec has long been the star. But over the past decade, Criolla grape varieties—initially introduced by the Spanish in the 16th century and evolving through numerous hybrids and mutations—have come to represent a significant part of the country’s viticultural heritage. A comprehensive decade-long study by the Instituto Nacional de Tecnología Agropecuaria (INTA) and other academic bodies revealed the diversity of these historic grapes, identifying about 49 distinct Criolla varieties, including 34 previously unknown. They include Torrontés, a popular aromatic white grape; Criolla Grande, widely used for bulk wine; and Criolla Chica, another alias for Listán Prieto.

Leading producers like Catena Zapata, Durigutti, Passionate Wine, and Sebastián Zuccardi of Zuccardi Family Wines are showcasing the potential of these varieties to appeal to a global market seeking unique and climate-resilient wines. Sebastián Zuccardi, in collaboration with Marcela Manini, Nuria Añó Gargiulo, and Pancho Bugallo, launched the Cara Sur brand in 2013 in Calingasta Valley, north of Mendoza, to preserve Criolla Chica’s history.

“It’s important to recognize the deep history of viticulture in Argentina that predates the popularization of French grape varieties,” Zuccardi says. “Understanding Criolla Chica’s origins is vital, as it forms an integral part of our viticultural identity.”

Zuccardi’s team has dedicated the past decade to rejuvenating old vineyards and studying Criolla Chica’s adaptability. He is optimistic about the potential of these grapes, especially in areas less suited to Malbec. “I have been amazed at the quality Criolla Chicacan produce,” says Zuccardi. “The current market desires wines with less concentration and alcohol, favoring lighter, more drinkable varieties. This has paved the way for grapes like Criolla Chica to make a comeback.”

West of the Andes, in Chile, Listán Prieto, known locally as País, has become a standard fixture on wine lists in Santiago, and bottles are increasingly entering the export market. Chile’s modern viticultural landscape has been dominated by French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère, similar to Argentina’s focus on Malbec and long overshadowing the story of País. But a dedicated group of vintners has committed to preserving heritage vines such as País, and the grape has been found in old vineyards stretching far south along the Pacific coastline, from the cooler regions of Bío Bío Valley and south-central Itata, as well as in the warmer region of Maule.

South of Santiago, the De Martino family owns vineyards in both the Maipo Valley and Itata Valley, where they have revived several Carignan and País vineyards dating back more than 70 and 150 years, respectively. Sebastián De Martino and his brother, Marco Antonio, view discovering these old vineyards as uncovering buried treasure, an opportunity to reconnect with the Spanish history of South American viticulture. “These vines represent a part of our past that we have to preserve,” says Sebastián De Martino, whose single-vineyard País is aptly named “Las Olvidadas” or ‘The Forgotten.’”

He attributes the longevity of these vineyards to the cooler coastal climate and abundant rain of the Itata vineyards, noting that these robust, disease-resistant vines produce exceptional wine—vibrant with red fruit character but elegant in structure. As with other descriptions of Listán Prieto and its many aliases, these wines hover in likeness to Beaujolais, Pinot Noir, and even lighter styles of Grenache. De Martino likes to suggest another similarity: “I think good País has the potential to make top quality wines like Barolo,” he says. “We just need more time to understand it.”

De Martino isn’t the only País evangelist. Others like Leonardo Erazo, Roberto Henríquez Ascencio, Pedro Parra, and Spain-based Miguel Torres are also champions of the grape. At Miguel Torres’ Chile winery, winemaker Eduardo Jordán is a staunch advocate. “To reestablish País as one of the most important varieties in the history of Chilean wine, it is important to know it well and to respect its main characteristics that have made it the variety with the longest existence in our country—almost 500 years,” explains Jordán. A standout is the Miguel Torres Millapoa País, produced from 150-year-old vines grown on basaltic sands and granitic soils near the Bío Bío River. “País can show different faces depending on where it is grown, but typically its wines have low or moderate alcohol content, low natural acidity, rustic tannins, and often a lighter color,” says Jordán. “These are integral parts of the grape’s DNA.”

The resurgence of Listán Prieto offers significant benefits to winemakers in the Americas, particularly its disease resistance and drought tolerance, making it ideal for regions like the southwestern United States and Baja California. This hardy, vigorous grape sustains long-lived vines, presenting a sustainable option for winemakers in unstable climates. And the wines themselves are gaining renewed appreciation for their distinctive taste and quality.

However, the grape faces hurdles that impede wider acceptance. The myriad of aliases for Listán Prieto across the Americas creates confusion, complicating its market recognition. Consumers often look for familiar names like Napa Cab or Bordeaux, and aligning the various regional identities under the Listán Prieto name is challenging.

What the grape does have is a story—one of adaptability and the enduring power of viticultural heritage. Its journey serves as an inspiration to those like sommelier Abe Zarate, who are passionate about sharing the rich tapestry of wine history with others. By embracing the potential of this remarkable grape and its regional expressions, winemakers not only honor its past but pave the way for a future where lesser-known varieties can thrive. With each pour of Misión, País, or Criolla Chica, Zarate and others continue the journey of Listán Prieto. “It’s more than just a wine,” Zarate says. “It’s a story of resilience and history.”