Mild-mannered black cod spices up the barbecue in this recipe from Michael Symon’s latest book, Cooking Out. Because the fish is so neutral, “it plays well with marinades and sauces,” writes Symon, who applies a kicky glaze of sriracha, miso, sake, and mirin. When cooking with sake, a good rule of thumb is to use a bottle you like the taste of, but not one that’s so precious you’ll monitor every drop you pour. Symon suggests simmering the marinade ingredients in a saucepan on the grill, but you can also prepare it on the stovetop. Either way, for best results, start marinating the fish several days before you grill it. “An overnight marinade is good, but when you go for two—or even three—days the fish is off the charts,” Symon writes.