Evocative of slow winter days spent at home with Julia Child on the television, coq au vin is the season’s quintessential dish—hearty, warming and sure to fill the house with heavenly aromas. In her new cookbook, Wine Lover’s Kitchen, longtime food writer and wine columnist Fiona Beckett recommends going traditional with a French wine—ideally something dry and fruit forward like a Côtes du Rhône-Villages, a Gigondas or Lirac. And take a cue from Julia: Remember to pour yourself a glass while cooking.