Drinks Atlas: Irish Whiskey

The simple edicts surrounding Irish whiskey stand in contrast to the spirit’s long and tumultuous history. The first written acknowledgement of Irish whiskey dates to 1324, and by the 1500s it was mentioned in medical journals for its supposed ability to cure paralysis and strengthen eyesight. In the late 1800s, there were more than two dozen distilleries across Ireland. A century later, there were four. 

“The island changed, and the liquids reflect this history,” says Fionnán O’Connor, Irish whiskey writer and author of A Glass Apart, in reference to the turbulent slew of events that threatened Irish whiskey’s existence. The introduction of the column still in the 19th century led to the rise of inexpensive blended Scotch whisky, a major competitor; Ireland’s independence from the U.K. in the 1920s disrupted trade (and coincided with Prohibition in the U.S.); and finally, World War II left the industry nearly decimated. 

A successful merger among three of the legacy brands—Jameson, Powers, and Paddy—and the creation of Irish Distillers Ltd. in 1966 pulled Irish whiskey back from the brink. Today, there are nearly 50 distilleries across the island. And although the majority of the market is dominated by household names of blended whiskey—Jameson, Tullamore Dew, and Bushmills—“there is a renaissance in offerings in Irish whiskey,” says O’Connor. 

One of the most prolific revival genres is single pot still whiskey. “Though whiskey can globally be made in a pot still, the Irish pot still [whiskey category] is more specifically regulated than Irish whiskey in general,” explains O’Connor, noting the mash must be at least 30 percent malted barley and 30 percent unmalted barley. “It produces a very oily spirit and a gingery crackliness that the Irish refer to as ‘pot still spice,’” he says. 

As Irish whiskey’s story continues to be written, the spirit defies many global spirits’ specificities like denomination of origin. Irish whiskey is protected by the European Union’s Geographical Indications, but O’Connor offers an explanation as to why regionality doesn’t matter as much. The world of Irish whiskey has “tectonically changed,” he says. “The whole map is being rewritten because there’s so many newcomers; we sort of don’t know ourselves.” But that’s not necessarily a negative. “There’s a sense of reclamation and enthusiasm,” says O’Connor. “People are doing things that have neverbeen done before, but also reviving old mash bills and old procedures.”

5 to Try

Bushmills Black Bush

“Irish whiskey’s Olympic candidate for best value blend on earth,” enthuses O’Connor for Bushmills blend of high-malt whiskey matured in oloroso sherry casks, and batch-distilled grain whiskey. “It’s a larger, more generous blend from a more civilized age.” $31.99, totalwine.com

Powers John’s Lane Single Pot Still

“An old-school single pot still whiskey, with old leather on the nose, plenty of banana bread and gingery crackle on the palate, and enough viscous oils to sink a boat … or a pint,” says O’Connor, adding it’s “the purist’s drop.” $67.99, caskers.com

Redbreast 12-Year Cask Strength

This annual batch of sherry cask–aged single pot still whiskey is what O’Connor describes as “the old testament of Irish whiskey.” Rich in character and high in proof, this whiskey offers notes of brown sugar, dried figs, and gingerbread, all lingering for ages. $109.99, totalwine.com

Dunville’s PX Single Malt 10 Year

“An absolute cracker from Irish distilling’s new guard,” says O’Connor. This single malt is “a decadent, viscous, after-dinner sherry bomb kept on its toes by the crackling ferns and grasses still making themselves heard under gooey layers of Pedro Ximénez goodness.” $69.99, totalwine.com

Killowen Barántúil

“Distilled in small, direct-flame pots from a mixed mash of peated malt, raw barley, peated oats, wheat, and rye, this is possibly the most cult-adored new release among whiskey fans in Ireland,” says O’Connor. “Long fermentations and wide back cuts all contribute to this viscous, smoky, multi-granular slant on Irish distilling’s raw barley oils and spices.” $99.95, folsomwinespirits.com