Drink of the Week: Jean-Paul Brun Beaujolais l’Ancien 2010

November 09, 2012

The stroke of midnight on the third Thursday of each November sends corks popping with celebrations around the globe toasting the latest release of France’s Beaujolais Nouveau wine. It’s longtime end-of-harvest tradition, but too often, these rushed-to-bottle reds leave something to be desired. Which is where wines like today’s Drink of the Week—the 2010 Beaujolais l’Ancien from Jean-Paul Brun—come in. It’s also made in France’s Beaujolais region and with the same Gamay grape, but there’s nothing nouveau about this bottle. One of a growing number of vintners redefining the wines of the region, this estate organically produces this elegant, easy drinker for high-acid fruit flavors of tart cherries, an underlying layer of earthy mushroom and chalky minerality on the finish. It’s delicate, fresh and delicious. And for more Beaujolais we love, check out “Go, Go Gamay!” in our September/October 2012 issue. $17, astorwines.com