5 to Try: African Coffees

Coffee can be as terroir-driven as wine, with factors like elevation, climate, and soil pH heavily influencing the flavor profile of a cup. The equatorial belt runs through the birthplace of coffee, where the plants thrive in the higher altitudes and cooler temperatures of East African countries like Kenya, Ethiopia, and Rwanda. “Coffees from East Africa are highly prized for a rainbow of diverse, surprising, and excellently curated and impeccably processed beans,” says Candice Madison, a Q Grader, coffee quality control expert, and founder of Kandake Boutique Coffees. “There are many different ways to talk about the origin of a particular coffee, other than country,” Madison notes. “You can find coffees identified by departments, regions, washing stations, and even local geography, such as mountains or lakes.” Here, Madison explores the profiles and distinguishable qualities of coffees from several African countries.

Kenya

Madison praises Kenyan coffees for their consistency, as well as their deep and compelling attributes. “I love coffees from Kamwangi, in Kiambu County, and from areas such as Nyeri and Kirinyanga. They speak to my preferred profile of phosphoric acid brightness (think that ineffable bubbly brightness of sodas such as Coca-Cola).” Given the country’s long-standing history of coffee production, plenty of diversity has evolved within the region alone. However, coffees from Madison’s favored areas of Kenya typically exude deeper notes of dark purple berries like fresh currants, raisins, and blackberries, plus a brown sugar sweetness. For availability, see cambercoffee.com

Ethiopia

Africa’s first coffee plants were discovered in Ethiopia, which has since grown to become one of the most beloved coffee origins today for its recognizable floral traits. Not only does the famed Gesha coffee hail from this country; other regions like Yirgacheffe and Guji also punch above their weight for coffees with intoxicating aromas, silky-bodied brews, and clearly articulated flavors that Madison claims “any semiserious coffee lover has a yen for. Their flavors announce themselves from the first sniff of the aroma, and the notes lead all the way into the cup.” For availability, see parlorcoffee.com

Rwanda

A once lesser-known coffee origin, Rwanda has progressed significantly in its specialty-coffee production in recent years thanks to the industrialization of the region, as well as the work of the female coffee producers and co-ops there. “[It’s] prized by roasters and consumers alike for producing chuggable, delicious, and distinctly flavored coffees; [notes] from Rwanda include cherry, grape, lime, chocolate, mandarin, nectarine, and plum,” says Madison. “But this all depends on processing.” Wet-processed coffees are common in Rwanda, along with anaerobic fermentation—an emerging style that mimics the flavors of natural wine in coffee form. For availability, see madcapcoffee.com

Uganda

Historically, Uganda has opted for robusta in its coffee-growing practices. However, a recent foray into specialty arabica has resulted in favorable outcomes. Madison fondly recalls their first taste of coffee from the Sipi Falls region, where a mix of traditional and innovative processing techniques contributes to luscious brews with diverse characteristics. “Chocolate and toffee notes are met with a delightful florality, and are surprisingly complementary in washed-process offerings—think black cherry and mandarin confections. Naturally processed coffees are rich, unctuous, and full-bodied,” says Madison. “I remember one year I was able to roast flavors such as strawberry compote and balsamic reduction, softened by pastry crust. It was delicious!” For availability, see huckleberryroasters.com

Tanzania

“Lucky you if this is your first hello,” says Madison of Tanzanian coffee, the fourth-largest coffee producer in Africa. “Tanzania has a unique flavor profile—one I’d never encountered in a coffee from East Africa—and one I now thoroughly delight in.” Coffees grown in regions like Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru produce cups with notes of cedar, sage, blackcurrant, and chocolate with citrus. The coffees are complex yet rich and mellow, constantly surprising Madison with every roast. For availability, see beannbean.com