5 to Try: Orange Wines

Despite its ancient roots and modern popularity, orange wine still lacks a legal definition and currently remains categorized under white wine. So it’s unsurprising that the resurgence in the style led to both excitement and confusion. Sommelier Doreen Winkler leaned into the former, launching the first orange wine subscription service in 2019. Now a brick-and-mortar shop in Manhattan’s Lower East Side, Orange Glou stocks wines from around the globe, and Winkler continues to champion the style and educate. “I became obsessed with orange wine over a decade ago,” she says. “The texture, the taste—it’s all just so much more exciting than any other category.” Winkler offers us five of her current favorites.

Grape Republic “Aromatico,” Yamagata, Japan

“Japanese wine is very popular right now, and rightfully so,” says Winkler. “I’m particularly excited about this sparkling wine made in the ancestral method.” From winemaker Kazuomi Fujimaka, the wine is made in Yamagata—a region historically known for sake. The grapes (a blend of Delaware, Shine Muscat, and Niagara) are macerated for one day before the juice is pressed, and immediately bottled and capped to ferment. “This wine tastes like Haribo Tropicana mix in the best way!” she says. $48.99

I Cangianti by Stoppini “Confine Macerato,” Umbria, Italy

“The Stoppini brothers are true garagiste winemakers—a French term for small-batch ‘garage-made’ wine,” explains Winkler. Fitting, given that their first vintage in 2019 was literally produced in their garage in Umbria. Using local (but lesser known) San Colombano grapes from resuscitated old vines near the Tuscan border, the brothers ferment the variety in stainless steel with eight days of skin contact, then blend with 10 percent Malvasia that’s had six days on the skins. “This is a full-bodied wine with notes of ripe apricot, pink salt, cantaloupe, and orange blossom,” says Winkler. “It has lots of texture.” $32

Domaine Brand “Tout Terriblement” Macération, Alsace, France

Winemaker Philippe Brand spent time working in Burgundy, Greece, and Australia’s Barossa Valley before returning to his family estate. “He joined forces with his father in 2006, bringing new life to their Alsatian vineyard,” Winkler says. Their “Tout Terriblement” is made from whole-cluster Gewürztraminer that macerates on the skins for 14 days before spending 12 months in oak. “This wine is a must-try!” says Winkler. “It’s medium bodied, with notes of lychee, tangerine, rose water, cantaloupe, and ginger.” $49

Matic “Let’s Get the Party Started,” Štajerska, Slovenia

Combining truly ancient techniques with a modern philosophy, third-generation Slovenian winemaker MatijaŽerjav (nicknamed Matic) is “encouraging everyone to throw a fête with ‘Let’s Get the Party Started,’” says Winkler. Made with hand-harvested Riesling, the wine is both fermented and aged in amphorae (clay pots), receiving more than 200 days on the grape skins and imparting huge texture and depth. “The wine is light bodied and has notes of orange blossom, apricot, lemon, honeysuckle, dried rose petals, and rocks,” she says. $30

Pittnauer “Perfect Day,” Burgenland, Austria

“What’s really special about this one is that the grapes in this blend were treated individually and differently,” explains Winkler. Winemaker Gerhard Pittnauer co-ferments Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc on the skins in an open vat for 14 days, while the Muscat gets three days on skins, the Gewürztraminer spends 20 days in amphorae on skins, and the Gelber Muskateller is pressed shortly after maceration. “After having been aged separately in amphorae and old oak for half a year, the four wines were merged right before bottling. The texture feels like a fluffy pillow,” says Winkler, noting flavors of lychee, rose petal, and dried mango. $33.97