Chic Pizzas and Crushable Wines Are a Diner's Dream Date - Imbibe Magazine Subscribe + Save

Once upon a time, pizza night meant Formica counters and sticky vinyl chairs. Chances were high that the dough you were eating had been frozen, the sauce spooned from a can. Drinks arrived by the pitcher—macro brew lager or soda pop. And wine, when offered at all, tended to span a plonky spectrum, from carafes of White Zinfandel to straw-wrapped fiascos of Chianti.

The vibes were comforting, casual, cheap. But cool? Not exactly.

Then, in the first decade of the new millennium, something began to shift. Inspired by the techniques of old-school Neapolitan pizzaiolos and buoyed by relatively low startup costs—a boon during the Great Recession—a new guard of ambitious young chefs devoted themselves to bringing craft pizza to America.

At spots like A16 in San Francisco, City House in Nashville, and Roberta’s in Brooklyn, patrons lined up for creative pies topped with ingredients like mortadella and ’nduja, charred to leopard-spotted perfection in hulking wood-fired ovens and finished with fennel pollen or a drizzle of hot honey. All of a sudden, diners who’d once been happy to settle for a street-corner slice were talking about 00 flour and cold fermentation.

It wasn’t just the grub that got a glow-up. Along with elevated pies, many of these next-generation joints also began offering a different kind of wine list, generous with by-the-glass options and bottles that were bright, approachably priced, and often natural or low-intervention. Suddenly, a buzzy new consumer category—the “pizza wine”—was born. Together, the pairing offered discerning diners a sweet spot that had seemed surprisingly rare: a night out with food and wine that felt both dialed-in and completely relaxed.

Now, a decade and a half on, the public’s appetite for this winning combo shows no signs of abating. Happily, the number of spots reliably slinging great pies—and great “pizza wine”—continues to multiply in every corner of the country. Whether your neighborhood joint is Friends & Family in Portland, Maine; Rose Pizzeria in Berkeley, California; No Saint in Portland, Oregon; Willie’s in Boston; or Lincoln Wine Bar in Mount Vernon, Iowa, superlative pies and crushable wines are almost always within reach.

What’s the enduring appeal? One element is simply the joyful way these places subvert a tired script. For decades, conventional dining wisdom said that pizza was cheap and casual, while wine was serious and stuffy—and the two spheres didn’t overlap.

But when Mike Fadem launched Ops in the Bushwick neighborhood of Brooklyn, in 2016, making Neapolitan-style pizzas with a focus on organic ingredients, wine was a primary part of the equation from the jump. “I’d gotten nerdy about natural wine working for Lee Campbell and others at Marlow & Sons, and I was developing my own taste,” he explains. “I had this idea: I wanted it to be a nice, simple, high-quality wine bar that happened to serve really good pizza, too.”

Indeed, there’s a reason why the natural wine craze and serious pizza feel deeply intertwined. First, with their focus on process over scale and respect for ingredients, a pizzaiolo laboring over a long-fermented dough and a natural winemaker rhapsodizing over native yeasts are essentially pursuing parallel paths. Then there’s the convenient fact that the two tend to taste delightful together. Because natural wines are minimally manipulated and often picked earlier, before their sugars overripen, their profiles tend to skew high-acid, low-alcohol, and lively—qualities that make ideal pairings for jammy tomato sauce, cheese, and charcuterie.

It also just makes sense from the standpoint of dollars and cents. Maxwell Lipp, director of operations at Sonny’s Pizza, which began serving Sicilian-style pan pies on an unassuming stretch of Northwest Washington, D.C., in 2019, says that approachability and education have been baked into their ethos. The result is a slice shop that anyone can drop into on a Tuesday when they don’t want to do dishes and still get a great $14 glass of organic Prosecco to wash it down with.

“We try to keep the pricepoint pretty accessible—that’s something we’re super proud of,” he says. In addition to an ever-changing list of sub-$16 glasses, at monthly wine club tastings patrons can sample four wines—about two full glasses—for $10. Lipp sees that spirit of generosity as one of the connective tissues between pizza and wine. “A slice is great, but like wine, pizza is really built for sharing,” he says. “It shines when you’re together.”

At a time when inflation-weary diners are eyeballing their wallets but still craving an occasional treat, menus offering high-quality pizza and exciting wine at an accessible price meet the moment.

At a time when inflation-weary diners are eyeballing their wallets but still craving an occasional treat, menus offering high-quality pizza and exciting wine at an accessible price meet the moment. According to a 2026 analysis from McKinsey tracking restaurant consumer behavior, over the last two years restaurant and takeout costs have risen even more sharply than grocery prices. If that gap continues to increase, it seems natural that high-end meals will begin to feel less worthwhile relative to their cost.

Carlin Karr, wine and beverage director for Colorado’s Frasca Hospitality Group, entered the industry in 2008 as the Great Recession was dramatically reconfiguring the restaurant landscape, and says she sees many parallels between that era and now. “The places that were killing it then were the ones offering anti-stuffy, value-driven experiences. It’s like serving caviar on chicken nuggets: People want luxury, but they don’t want to be taken hostage.”

Lipp calls it “fine-dining fatigue” and adds that what began as a shift during the Covid pandemic seems to have stuck around. “We’re not living in a world anymore where people are casually going to Eleven Madison Park or flying off to Copenhagen. But that doesn’t mean they don’t still want to go out for a night and encounter exciting flavors and drink interesting things.”

The tricky part, say wine pros, is keeping standards high while still hitting a welcoming price point. When Nick Arone opened the diminutive Bar Chenin in Detroit’s Siren Hotel last year, his vision was to offer a robust roster of natural wines at no more than $16 to $19 a glass. While that may not sound cheap, consider that under standard industry practices, the wholesale cost of a bottle sets the price of a glass pour—and Arone’s selections can be anywhere from $18 to $35. “I decided I wasn’t going to compromise on the quality of what we’re pouring and keep my margins smaller,” he explains.

Paired with focaccia-esque Detroit-style pizza topped with Calabrian chile oil or pistachio ricotta, fresh pastas, and homemade ice cream, that risky approach seems to be paying off: Bar Chenin was named a 2026 James Beard Award finalist, the only one in Michigan. “We’re serving real drinking food and offering wines that lots of people who come in can’t get at other places, which I love,” he says. “Honestly, I’m kind of into the idea of underpromising and overdelivering.”

That’s a tack that Joe Beddia, who opened the pioneering Pizzeria Beddia in Philadelphia’s Fishtown neighborhood in March 2013, knows intimately. “I convinced my partners early that the right thing to do was to sell better wine at lower prices in the hopes that we could sell more in the long run,” he explains. “It becomes a statement of trying to make it affordable.” Pennsylvania’s byzantine state liquor system makes the job even trickier, but even after Bon Appétit named his pies the best pizza in America, Beddia’s approach didn’t change.“We’ll list a bottle for $67 that would be $85 elsewhere—so you see people order two or three bottles for a table,” he says. “It’s always about giving people quality, but also a better experience.”

Though cheap and cheerful is always welcome, of course, “pizza wine” isn’t just defined by dollar amounts. So how do the pros decide which bottles make their list and which don’t? Pairing isn’t always straightforward, because pizza is hardly monolithic: There are deep-dish renditions and cracker-thin Roman styles, minimalist white pies and saucy red ones, and toppings that run the gamut from briny littleneck clams to sweet eggplant or funky Gorgonzola.

Some favor a regional approach. Pizza’s roots—and the old adage that “if it grows together, it goes together”—make Italian wines a logical place to start. “I tend to gravitate to Campania since that’s really the birthplace of pizza,” says Karr. Among her default whites are racy Fianos and flinty Falanghinas that offer bright acidity without turning too dry or tannic. For reds, Karr praises Etna Rossos for heir “Mediterranean softness” and a “charred volcanic quality” that chimes perfectly with wood-fired crusts. With savory roasted fruit notes that can stand up to a loaded meat-lovers pie, Sangiovese wins marks as another reliable crowd-pleaser. Still, she emphasizes that experimentation is part of the game: “You don’t need to be overly serious. It’s just pizza.”

“At Ops, we learned fast that people want reds—something in their brain just goes red sauce/red wine,” says Fadem. The good news is that finding options that play nicely with tomato sauce’s natural acidity isn’t as challenging as it might seem. “Maybe you don’t want a 20-year-old Barolo, but almost any young, fresh red that can take a little chill will work.”

Dry, fizzy Lambruscos—which many pros cite as the classic pizza wine—have a particularly special place in Fadem’s heart. “If you’re in Emilia, that’s what everyone’s drinking when they’re eating focaccia, Parmesan, charcuterie—and all those things together are basically pizza,” he says. Lipp agrees: “There’s something about effervescent wines, whether red or white, that just always works. Those bubbles do wonders for scrubbing your palate.” This season, one of Lipp’s go-to pours is a sparkling rosé from Mersel Wine, made in Lebanon by winemaker Eddie Chami.

Wines from cooler regions and higher, alpine altitudes tend to play nicely with pizza because their natural acidity and lower alcohol content make a refreshing counterpoint to pies piled with rich, savory toppings.

Climate can be another uniting factor: Wines from cooler regions and higher, alpine altitudes tend to play nicely with pizza because their natural acidity and lower alcohol content make a refreshing counterpoint to pies piled with rich, savory toppings. “I always go back to Beaujolais—Gamay. I love the idea of grabbing from around the globe, as long as the wines share the same ethos,” says Fadem. Beddia praises German Spätburgunders and—for an option from this side of the pond—Oregon Pinot Noirs. For a more under-the-radar pick, Arone is currently gaga for Pinot d’Aunis, a historic Loire varietal that’s been enjoying a renaissance thanks to a new generation of natural producers. “They’ve got this great, electric Kool-Aid feeling.”

And what about the times when pizza night means takeout or (shhhhhhhh!) a few French bread slices from good old Stouffer’s? Your local grocery may not put the same selection at your fingertips as a sommelier, but even at the entry-level end of the spectrum, quality options await those who know how to look.

A few even spell their mission right out. In 2023, drawing on their experiences running both a beloved wine bar and a pizzeria in Providence, Rhode Island, partners Liz McDonnell (of the late Fortnight Wine Bar) and Rob Andreozzi (of Pizza Marvin) decided to launch a bone-dry canned domestic Lambrusco that they dubbed simply Pizza Wine. Their goal: bringing the public a bubbly made with care and intention, absent formalities or insidery gatekeeping. The tagline summed it up: Made obsessively, enjoyed without fuss.

“Ninety-eight percent of Americans eat pizza,” explains McDonnell. “Our feeling was that every one of them deserved a well-made, affordable wine. No one should be drinking chemicals and wood chips, even if they’re ‘just’ eating pizza.” Thanks to steady growth, their direct-to-consumer web shop became nationally available last year; by summer 2026, they expect to have distribution throughout New England.

But the surest sign the duo’s instincts are on target may be the way Big Food suddenly can’t wait to jump on the “pizza wine” bandwagon, too. In late 2024, Pizza Hut began selling its own limited-run branded wine for the first time—though it’s hard to imagine who the audience for a “basil-infused tomato wine” might be. A few months later, Domino’s announced a partnership with the ubiquitous mass-market Australian brand Yellow Tail. Devices affixed to some bottle caps allow customers to tap and order pizzas directly from their phones.

As ridiculous as it all is, McDonnell sees in the mainstreaming of “pizza wine” a reason to be proud. “Culturally, it just feels like a fun time. We’ve helped people realize a moment is happening.”


8 Wines to Take Away


PODERI CELLARIO LAFREA LANGHE FAVORITA VERMENTINO 2024

With summertime white clam pies and pesto pizzas, nothing compares to an Italian Vermentino from Liguria or Langhe says Carlin Karr, wine and beverage director for Colorado’s Frasca Hospitality Group. This complex, minerally example is organically produced by a third-generation family winery using indigenous yeasts, minimal filtering, and stainless steel barrels. $26.99, yianniswine.com

CONVENTO LANGHE ROSSO 2023

Jessica Brassard, manager and wine buyer of Hudson Wine Merchants in New York’s Hudson Valley, calls the savory earthiness of this rustic Piedmontese blend of Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Dolcetto a slam-dunk pairing for pizza. The classic, plummy fruit profile and gentle tannins have enough heft to cut through cheese without clashing with tomato sauce. $22.45, midvalleywine.com

LE PINEAU D’AUNIS, MAISON HAUTS BAIGNEUX 2023

Nick Arone of Detroit’s Bar Chenin points to Pineau d’Aunis, a lesser-known French varietal grown primarily in the Loire Valley, as one of the “pizza wines” he’s most excited to pour right now. Light-bodied and refreshing, this perky version makes a great first impression. $26.96, astorwines.com

LA SPINETTA IL ROSÉ DICASANOVA 2025

Proving that rosé isn’t just for poolside day drinking, Brassard says this Tuscan slurper is super food-friendly. Made from Sangiovese and Prugnolo Gentile grapes, the wine’s notes of cherry and blood orange are tempered by a whisper of savory herbs. $15.98, hitimewine.net

ECHEVERRIA NO ES PITUKO CARIGNAN NATURAL WINE 2024

Long considered a “workhorse grape” but rarely garnering buzz, Carignan is finally getting some love from folks like Arone, who calls it “more than just a gluggy red,” and praises its balanced acidity and good bones. $13.89, saratogawine.com

FILIPA PATO DINÂMICA 2024

The work of one of Portugal’s most groundbreaking female winemakers, this natural white blend is made from indigenous grapes, native-yeast fermented, and aged on lees in stainless steel and French oak. That acidity slices right through olive oil and fresh mozzarella, says Brassard, and the slightly grippy tannins work especially well with richer toppings like prosciutto. $23.99, sf.flatiron-wines.com

SCOPA NERO D’AVOLA BLEND 2025

This Nero D’Avola blend from the Sicilian producer Scopa is a fan favorite at Sonny’s Pizza in Washington, DC. Manager Maxwell Lipp praises its “great minerality and salinity” and a silkiness that’s the perfect chaser for a pepperoni slice. $19.99, ny.eatalyvino.com

L’ONESTA LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA NV

Lambrusco is the ur pizza wine—and this di Sorbara from Emilia-Romagna is both a great value and an ideal example of the form, says Brassard. Light, fizzy, and driven by tart cranberry and red cherry with a savory edge, it lifts the richness of crust and cheese and keeps every bite feeling fresh. $14.95, saratogawine.com

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